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| Restaurant La
Sinfonia |
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| Milan -
Italy |
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Extraordinary - Society
October - 2007 |
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5 Stars
& 6 Stripes
Overall - 'Cuisine & Service' |
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The
Ultimate Award:
Seven Stars and
Stripes® |
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| "E' una buona forchetta" (literally, he is a good
fork), an old Italian expression that is used to describe a gourmet, someone
who enjoys eating well and appreciates high quality dishes, somehow found its
way to labeling me. In a conversation overheard near my table in the fabulously
eclectic Sinfonia Restaurant at the Town House Galleria, two servers described
me using that phrase in a most respectful way. They seemed honestly impressed
with my ability to discern and accept the subtle flavors of Ayurvedic Culture
woven within the cuisine creations of Executive
Chef
Giacomo Gaspari. Chef Giacomo has as the basis of his philosophy the
delicate balance between body and mind that is specially tied to well being and
living a good life. He is truly an innovator in search of fertile minds and
seems to be in tune with the nutritional harmony that is the byproduct of this
cutting edge cuisine. |
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| Outside the tall etched-glass
window adjacent to my table emerged the historical 19th century Galleria; a
glass roofed cruciform arcade shopping center covered with a domed octagon at
center. I soaked up the view realizing all the while that from the Sinfonia,
only guests of the Town House Galleria can participate and enjoy. From the
floor of the Galleria came concerto music from a piano set atop rare marble
mosaics depicting the emblems of Italian cities. In the restaurant, tables are
elegantly set with Rosenthal Studio china and Sambonet flatware and tableside
service is professional, led by Maitre D' Alessandro Troccoli. |
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| Our host Chef Giacomo started us with Pumpkin
Flower filled with Ricotta and Salmon forcing me to justify not leaving any
specks of food on the plate while sitting back with a slight grin to sip
Sauvignon Blanc "Südtiroler" 2005 Karnell with its well-balanced
fresh citrus flavors and elegant finish. I tried to contemplate the importance
of nutritional harmony and balance and in my humble opinion, this food and wine
paring certainly achieved virtual nirvana. Next up, Drops of Lemon Infused
Ricotta Cheese in a Fresh Tomato Coulis and black pepper coulis. This time
the citrus infusion and savory tomato and black pepper coulis called out for
more in the manifestation of Christoffel Blonde Beer from Holland. Who
said food pairings had to be with wine? Chef Giacomo goes against the grain and
reaches for the slightly bitter bite of this German style pilsner to go with
this selection since both the food and beer exhibit the Ayurvedic quality of
Pita (bitter tastes for astringent dishes). |
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“I tried to contemplate the importance of nutritional harmony
and balance and in my
humble opinion, this food and wine paring certainly
achieved virtual nirvana.” ~ TB |
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| 2007 -
Award-Hand-Out: Restaurant La Sinfonia, Milan - Italy |
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Our main course was Steamed Filet of Sea
Bream with Potatoes and Baby Spinach Salad with citrus and olive oil
emulsion. This is a mild tasting but great eating salt-water fish common to
estuaries. The citrus theme is carried through once again with great success
since the ultimate effect of the emulsion is increased flavor and tender white
meat. To go with this dish, the suggested wine pairing is Donnadele Rosato
2005 Lange with intensive aromas of fresh flowers and fruit nestled in a
gorgeous light rose color reminiscent of a red onion peel amid a succulent
fresh structured finish. The finale was presented as Milk Chocolate Mousse
with Strawberry Ice Cream and Vanilla Sauce paired this time with
Demerara El Dorado 12 year Rum, again tossing out the norms and inviting
us to savor the special smooth taste and full fragrant aroma of this special
Guyanese rum. It seemed to glide over the back of my tongue as I sipped and
alternated between the chocolate mousse, ice cream and vanilla sauce then back
to the fragrant rum.
I just sat there after this marvelous dinner reflecting
on all that had transpired during the cuisine review. I felt stimulated and
satisfied. I reasoned that with the original painting of the "Last Supper" less
than one kilometer from the restaurant, I would be back for another review
sometime soon, thanks to Chef Giacomo. |
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by
Thorsten Buehrmann
Editor: John Lomitola
Editor-in-Chief: Ingrid
Lemme |
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| © 2007 ~ Seven Stars and Stripes, Inc. |
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