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Chanterelle
American Dream Cuisine™
Chanterelle

2 Harrison Street - New York, receives
6 Stars & Stripes - Award
Society
6 Stars for Outstanding Cuisine and
6 Stripes for Outstanding Service.
The Ultimate Award:
Seven Stars and Stripes™
“Loud jackets, louder voices, wild gestures” were once the norm in this legendary location, the New York Mercantile Exchange Building that David Waltuck set up shop in 1989 with his newly re-located restaurant Chanterelle. It was plain to see for Simone and me as we walked through the door and past a remarkable floral arrangement, that times have changed quite a bit. Spacious and elegant, it appealed immediately to my German sense of order and symmetry.

Its roominess somehow belied the intimacy of only 17 tables surrounded by huge comfortable chairs and warm creamy walls. We were effortlessly shown to our table and as we strolled in that direction we could hear the muffled voices of various well dressed types with an occasional burst of laughter, the kind that only comes in a totally relaxed and satisfying environment. Although somewhat dimly lit, it provided for serious intimacy and romance as if looking into your significant other's eyes over candle-light doesn't help. Simone was impressed by my newfound motivated attention to her, but she insisted on an epicurean agenda for right now.

At this point we couldn’t wait to peruse the creative looking hand written menu, which was now being given to us. We buried our heads quickly in the menu as all patrons do as soon as they are seated as if it were a knee-jerk reaction. A swift glance up restored the reality of it all and promised to bring us the experience of dining in someone’s cozy living room. David Waltuck prides himself on his ability to cleverly re-apply traditional French cooking techniques to his unique creations and so the menu changes every six weeks as new inspirational items work their way into his collection. The appeal for Waltuck’s bill of fare is wide-ranging and remarkable considering the overabundance of young upstarts in this competitive restaurant market and the profusion of disappointments. Chanterelle has endured more than 20 years since its opening when David was a 24yr old pioneer with a vision of using only the freshest seasonal produce while seeking out small producers and suppliers for the best ingredients available.

We now felt that the stage was set for us to explore David Waltuck’s opulent style through his strong understanding of depth and intensity of flavors from around the world. Simone suddenly gave me an elbow to alert me to the approaching wine steward preciously holding a bottle of Pol Roger Champagne, the personal favorite of Sir Winston Churchill himself. It looks as if the show has started and the characters include us!

A gentle caress was observed as the bottle was presented and then inserted into the ice bucket. Such care and respect is only given when champagne has a reputation that exudes finesse and elegance.
The recent celebration of the 150th anniversary of Pol Roger and the fact that they only produce their vintage wines in 'very good' to 'excellent' years, puts it in this category.

As a member of a group of producers known as "Grand Marque", Pol Roger subscribes to producing the finest champagne while exacting quality controls above the norm, and meticulous, traditional methods that have been used since its establishment in 1849. This cuvèe is 80% Pinot Noir and 20% Chardonnay of the finest grapes available which would allow for putting away for a future celebration if one can resist.
Pol Roger A soft pop was detected as the wine steward gently twisted the bottle to release the cork. The pour was precious little and offered to me for approval. I swirled the glass and noticed a slight hint of hazelnuts to the nose as I tried to read the complexity from the delicate golden straw color.

All eyes were upon me as the first drop entered my mouth and I was eager to approve so that Simone could share in its remarkable voluptuous and balanced structure. I felt its fine mousse-like bubbles find their way to the back of my palate where I relished its stylish and balanced acidity.
I nodded with approval and Simone was served while I made mental notes to add a few bottles to my collection and allow this robust wine to develop further in its long life.

The menus were quickly removed and we were surprised to learn that our host Chef Waltuck had pre-arranged a special tasting for us to savor. This struck a note with our German instincts for order as we felt that we were now in the care of a master of his trade. Our first course arrived full of vibrant color and textures as if an artist were splashing paints from a palate onto a canvas.


Amuse:
  • "Parmesancooki" out of potato rolled with gammon decorated with spicy roasted red pepper-sauce and chives
    A light crunchy potato crisp laced with parmesan cheese and smoked salted bacon.

Appetizer: Simone
  • Squid with vegetable "spaghetti" and roasted tomato vinaigrette with olives
    Offered Mediterranean zest while tenderly intriguing the mind with strands of pasta-like vegetables


  • Emilio Lustau "Papirusa" Manzanilla-Sherry
    Characterized by light straw color and smoky intensity, irresistible aromatic temperament and well integrated flavors of dried fruits and flowers.

Appetizer: Thorsten
  • Salad of roasted red and yellow beets and yellowfin tuna tartar decorated with mayonnaise and dandelion
    Another well orchestrated arrangement of colors and flavors that work exceedingly well together. Delicate ocean flavor of tuna co-mingled with earthy beets and pungent crisp leaves of the detoxifying dandelion.


  • Tsukinokatsura Junmai Ginjo Yangi-Sake
    Soft golden hues with a mild elegant aroma light fruit and faint sweetness.
Chanterelle
Chanterelle Thorsten: Main Course I
  • Warm salad of grilled foie gras and Portobello mushrooms
    Harmoniously choreographed in an explosion of color. Subtle creamy earthiness deeply reinforced with cognac and truffles

  • Alvear "Asuncion" Olorosso - Montilla Moriles
    Produced by 'raisinizing' or drying grapes in the hot sun yields an intensely sweet style. The winery was founded in 1729 and still produces delightful attention getting wines. The Oloroso is soft and lovable while offering harmony between nuttiness and sweetness.
Perfect Inconspicuous Service - The Napkin Test - Just after the main course was skillfully served by the competent staff and we had time to savor a few bites, my napkin became inexplicably stuck under one of the legs of the chair that I was sitting in. Apparently and without much ado, the waiter inconspicuously strode over to pick up the fallen serviette. Upon trying to gracefully remove it from under the leg of my chair and after a few gently tugs, the waiter realized that it would not come freely. He quickly motioned to his accomplice and quite suddenly two napkins appeared, one of which was ceremoniously placed on my lap while the other was placed next to my left hand. Service has many connotations in the volatile restaurant business, but this type of personal attention is professional and concerned adding up to an important ingredient for any successful operation.
Simone: Main Course I
  • Steamed zucchini blossoms with chicken and black truffles
    An exercise in zen simplicity and subtlety. Peppery chicken mousse carefully adorned with black truffles

  • Frederic Lornet Arbois Naturé - Jura 1999
    Fresh herbal nose, intense, rich on the palate with enticing hint of clean lemon and almonds.
Chanterelle
Simone: Main Course II
  • Spiced Porgy Sauté with sweet corn coulis
    Simply prepared as crisp zesty filet coupled with uncomplicated sweet corn and a splash of spinach

  • Don Miguel Gascon Vinguier-Mendoza 2001 Argentinia
    A little known varietal with a 'polyphonic' collection of melon, citrus, oak and musk producing a golden, light bodied finish. Grown in 1200 m altitude it produces an elegant and polished feel with a floral perfume.
Chanterelle Thorsten: Main Course II:
  • Striped bass and Shellfish barigoule with carots, zucchini, mushrooms
    Braised artichokes and mushrooms mingle with carrots and zucchini in a delicate broth that is fortified with herbs. The added element of clams and mussels provide the subtle backdrop and help to support the delicate striped bass.

  • Cairubrae "The Stones" Sauvignon Blanc 2002 Marlborough - New Zealand
    Typically characteristic light straw yellow color with lofty fragrance of kiwi and passionfruit. A hint of grapefruit with classic appearance of balanced acidity.
By this time Simone looked at me with an expression of transcendent satisfaction as if to say "It doesn't get any better that this!" Our thoughts were of what we had just finished and the warm feeling of great pleasure it had on us when suddenly the server announced the arrival of the third main course. "How could this be" Simone whispered to me in German as we enthusiastically got ready for the final push.
Thorsten: Main Course III:
  • Grilled red oak beef sirloin with star anise nice composition with sauce of stern anise, decorated with fennel
    A particularly tender finely marbled cut of meat served in a decidedly rich reduction constructed with star anise. The addition of spring roll and bok choy compliments the dish's oriental accent.


  • Veramonte "Primus" Casablanca Valley 2000, Chile
    An amalgamation of cabernet sauvignon and merlot it has a wonderful focus of deep red and black berries through which a fabric of spicy oak is woven.
Chanterelle
Simone: Main Course III
  • Loin of lamb with Moroccan spices and gateau of lamb shanks and eggplant
    Intense flavor of cumin prepared with a rich and elaborate gateau of lamb shanks paired with eggplant.


  • Abadia Retuerta "Rivola" Sardon del Duerr 2001, Spain
    With 60% Tempranillo and 40% Cabernet Sauvignon it is aged unfiltered for 10 months in both French and American oak. Profoundly garnet red in color it resonates aromas of dark red fruit with a hint of smoke as an earthy tone. Full bodied to pair well with the Lamb, its tannins can be tempered with age.
Chanterelle Dessert Sampler:
  • Molten Vanilla Cake with black plum compote and port plum ice cream
  • Blueberry clafoutis and coconut cream cheese ice cream and crushed blueberries lemon aroma
  • Warm fresh fig and valhrona chocolate pudding with brandied fig ice cream very intense chocolat flavour
  • Honey lavender yoghurt crème and raspberries and cacaillon melon sorbet fantastic composition, very tender mousse and intense sorbet
  • Peanut butter with caramel mousse and caramel ice cream
Dessert Wine Sampler:
  • Chateau Pince Guerre Montbazillac 1998 honey like aroma, beautifully sweet and intense.
  • Brumaire Pacherenc du Vic Bilh 1999 white truffle aroma, a rare fairly sweet but soft wine.
  • Laubade Floc de Gascogne sweet unfermented aperitif with an Armagnac base with apricot notes.
The pleasure of sitting in Chanterelle for about 5 hours now may not have been that evident on our faces. Simone and I were awe-struck and needed time to savor and recall as many highlights of this memorable evening as possible.

David and Karen Waltuck proved to be venerable hosts for two wandering Germans who may have misjudged the level of cuisine and service available in this country.
David Waltuck & Thorsten Piosczyk
David Waltuck & Thorsten Piosczyk
We are pleased to report that at least this time, we have met a chef who is up to the challenge of conquering any preconceived ideas we travelers from 'across the pond' may have had.
by Simone Buehrmann & Thorsten Piosczyk

Editor-in-Chief: John Lomitola


 
 
 
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Disclaimer:

Although the above information was accurate at the time of publication, it can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all pertinent information with the companies in question before planning your trip.


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