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Stenhus Restaurant
Restaurant 'Stenhus'
Tallinn, Estonia
6 Stars & 5 Stripes
Society - Extraordinary
May - 2009
6 Stars & 5 Stripes
Overall - 'Cuisine & Service'
The Ultimate Award:
Seven Stars and Stripes®
The location of the Schlössle Hotel's celebrated Stenhus Restaurant lies just below the cobblestoned surface of the Hobbit-like Old Town of Tallinn, where a perfectly preserved medieval setting has placed the city on the UNESCO list as a venerated Cultural Heritage Sites. On remarkably narrow streets where a Fiat Cinque Cento can barely fit you get the feeling that the mystery continues once you make it past the entrance to a thirteenth-century cellar. This is the domain of Executive Chef Tõnis Siigur and his award-winning team, working their culinary alchemy. It is an atmosphere suitable for a baron set under a rustic wine cellar inspired ceiling and raw primeval fireplace suggesting a dreamy dinner for two under a blanket. This is the same restaurant that catered to HM Queen Elizabeth II during her visit to Tallinn prompting the regular clientele to expect the same uncompromised high standards to continue. As this was our second visit to Stenhus Restaurant, we too expected no less of Chef Tõnis Siigur and his unbiased culinary raison d'être of consistent satisfaction of every guest, for every experience. Our culinary journey began in the courtyard sipping a welcome cocktail with Schlössle Hotel's GM Kay Peter Bischoff. He informed us that this al fresco venue is open during the summer for lunch and dinner, offering a whole new fresh air dynamic for dining enjoyment.
Stenhus Restaurtant
Restaurant Stenhus
GM Bischoff escorted us to the restaurant and to our table next to Stenhus’s extensive wine cellar. High quality tapestries adorned the walls of the catacomb-like warren of rooms in the restaurant, giving us the feeling of attending a royal banquet sponsored by the Hanseatic League. An inspired bread selection of parsley-parmesan, garlic roll, leek roll and a dense Estonian country-style black bread with dried fruits and smoked ham soon arrived. Attention had even been paid to the butter, which had crystals of salt sprinkled on top and came from Normandy’s Isigny Ste Mere, AOC. Chef Sigur’s Amuse Bouche of Gazpacho and Onion Pie, which did the job of exciting the senses enough to begin to notice a trend. An aperitif followed this consisting of Pommeau de Normandie, Christian Drouin, a blend of Calvados and apple juice matured in oak for at least 18 months (per French law).
So far so good we ventured, and proceeded with the next course of EGG 62°C, Mushroom Casserole including pleasantly pungent arugula greens and crispy bacon croutons. The whole dish was topped with shaved truffles although my attention was drawn to the graceful appearance of the precisely poached egg sitting delicately amidst earthy mushrooms and truffles. Viña Montes Curico Sauvignon Blanc, Casablanca Valley 2007, paired well offering a zippy zesty citrus aroma laced with green melon and key lime, doing a nice job of tempering the addictive truffle. Restaurnat Stenhus Cuisine
The next course consisted of “Lady Curzon” with Suckling Pig and Lemon Crème de Blanc, with the emphasis on balance since there were plenty of contrasting flavors laid down with Indian spices but tempered caramelized onions and crème. Sommelier Sven Selvnik seemed to have a handle on his pairings to Chef Siigur’s cuisine and we were not to be disappointed with his next selection of Rüdesheim Riesling Trocken Georg Breuer Estate 2007. The balanced acidity and dry palate with a hint of honey set the stage for a great partner to the substantially flavored “Lady Curzon” entrée. By now it was time for an exceptional Grilled Foie Gras with Riesling Jelly and Brioche. For this selection, which has become a passion for me, the foie gras is topped with a Riesling jelly glaze and set over a brioche toast point. Together with a delightful spicy golden Pineau des Charentes, Maxime Trijol cognac offering mellow velvet fruit, it delivered the ultimate flavor profile in complimenting the rich foie gras.
Restaurnat Stenhus Cuisine Roasted Scallop with Vanilla and Potato Puree, Whitefish Roe and Parmesan Espuma was presented after a short pause although this small carefully selected entrée was quite simply an exceptional refinement of a complicated set of ingredients. The suggested wine paring for this was Chardonnay Albert Bichot ‘Chateau de Darcy’ 2006 offered highly concentrated fruit reminiscent of white peach within a balanced medium body.
The tasting menu now provided for two main courses, the first of which was Wood Pigeon with Champignon Duxelles and Onion Fluid Gel, a striking rendition of roasted pigeon complimented by a robust dark demi-glace fortified with a finely chopped shallot scented mushroom hash just bursting with flavor. The recommended wine was Pinot Noir, Single Vineyard Leyda Valley, Cahuil Vineyard Chile and we relished the soft red fruit aromas while savoring the long finish and sharp tannins. The second main course was decidedly our overall favorite featuring an agate red Prime Cut of Lamb, Ratatouille and Mild Garlic Purée beautifully contrasting sharply with a glossy dark glaze covering the entire chop. It was as if Chef Siigur set his menu to the principals of Feng Shui to encourage the flow of positive energy and deliver magic, mystery and order to the culinary world of his followers. Wine for this entrée was Chateau Dasvin, Bel-Air Cru Bourgeois Haut-Medoc AC, 1999 displaying refreshing red currents in a balanced refined structure with luscious tannins.
Restaurant Stenhus - Award
Restaurant Stenhus - Award
One of my all-time favorites for dessert in the form of a lava-cake called Le Biscuit de Chocolat Coulant literally flowed like molten lava when I cut into it and a concentrated cherry compote added a deeply flavorful stone fruit dimension. We sipped a passionate Niepoort Colheita 1991 all the while savoring its complex sweet soothing character with likable citrus aromas. Petit Fours including almond and coconut tuille as well as chocolate truffles arrived just in time to conclude an enjoyable dining experience wrapped in the poised imagination of Chef Siigur and his Sous Chef Madis Ental. Our experience left us feeling that whenever we come to Tallinn there will always be a sign hanging from the entrance of Stenhus with the words: “Tere, kodu” (Welcome home!)
“It was as if Chef Siigur set his menu to the principals of Feng Shui
to encourage the flow of positive energy and deliver magic,
mystery and order to the culinary world of his followers.” ~ TB
by Thorsten & Edmund Buehrmann

Editor: John Lomitola

Editor-in-Chief: Ingrid Lemme
© 2009 ~ Seven Stars and Stripes, Inc.


 
 
 
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Disclaimer:

Although the above information was accurate at the time of publication, it can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all pertinent information with the companies in question before planning your trip.


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