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| Andalusia, Spain |
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Extraordinary - Society
May - 2008 |
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5 Stars
& 6 Stripes
Overall - 'Cuisine & Service' |
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The
Ultimate Award:
Seven Stars and
Stripes® |
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| Two elephants sitting side by side on their haunches
with their trunks raised high, greeted us as we entered the Asia Restaurant as
an indication from Feng Shui that many blessings were soon to come. The
restaurant appears vibrant, harmonious and energized in such a way that it
exudes refinement, relaxation and superb gastronomy. Food and Beverage Manager
Bill Mathisen explained that as an ultra-inclusive luxury resort for both
golfers and non-golfers, culinary creativity and superb service is a
pre-eminent goal of Laotian born
Chef
Don Vienne Senathit. Over a silvery smooth glass of dry Jerez Sherry
from one of the oldest recognized Denominaciones de Origen in Spain, we are
told that our host Chef Don is also a part-time Buddhist monk. That seems to
explain the overall feeling of wisdom, strength and power that permeates
throughout the restaurant. As we took our seats overlooking the La Janda Valley
with scenic views of the nearby rice fields, we were awed by the intricacy of
the fruit carvings that were on display. It was as if the surreal carnations,
chrysanthemums and roses were in fact living objects, peering back at us as we
walked to our table. The menu at Asia is a synthesis of South East Asian
flavors marrying Laotian, Thai and Vietnamese cultural cuisine. The black walls
and minimalist architectural décor brought stark contrast to the feeling
of being in Andalusia while partaking in SE Asian fair. |
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Chef
Don is understated in his personality, he enjoys the focal point of a sushi
bar right in the middle of the restaurant. It is a model of cleanliness,
organization and creativity, fertile grounds for an imagination that spans
continental divides. One of the highlights of the all-inclusive menu was the
“Almadraba Toro Trilogy” featuring toro with yuzo and flying
fish roe, toro with caviar “ecologico” and toro “nam pla”
with “crystal shallots”. Toro is the meat that is cut from the tuna's
belly and is the most prized for its high fat content. |
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| It is pink, somewhat opaque and delicate enough to
melt in your mouth making it the perfect accompaniment for this trio of exotic
ingredients. It was the pairing of a fine Spanish Marques de Alella
Chardonnay, 2006 that brought together the diverse cuisine flavors by
introducing complex aromas of white fruit in harmony with the crisp acidity and
smooth finish. Another menu standout was the Native Blue Lobster and
“Pez Limon” Sashimi, a striking combination of sashimi style
tender lobster meat from the tail together with “Pez Limon” or
California Yellowtail. Although delicate in flavor, the alliance offered deep
subtle essence just waiting to be discovered. The light impact of the
Taisetsu Kura Sake was delicate with notes of fruit and plum and overall
clean on the palate. Also, as a credit to
Chef
Don's skill at handling the super sensitive Kobe Beef Tenderloin
“Vuelta y Vuelta” with Japanese Mushrooms and Volcanic Salt, it
was simply otherworldly. Legendary Kobe beef, which spends much of its life
getting massaged and barely moving, was soft like baker's butter with graceful
veins of marbled flesh running in even rows across the face of each delectable
bite. The contrast between the earthiness of both the mushrooms and the black
volcanic salt left me with a feeling of uncovering a new way of eating. Once
again, a bottle of Spanich Dos Viñedos , D.O. Ca. Rioja, where
grapes from two vineyards work in harmony to support the wonderfully delicate
beef with oak and smoke. |
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| 2008 -
Award-Hand-Out: Asia Restaurant |
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Finally, there was Callebaut Gran Cru
Chocolate in Textures, a multilayered creation of Japanese Pastry Chef,
Masanori Akiyama that redefined the meaning of passion and seduction. The
centuries old art of being an experienced confectioner is obviously the perfect
forte for this chocolate master. A bottle of Chateau Rayne Vigneau 1988,
Sauternes, was presented and slowly poured into two shapely Schott Zwiesel
dessert wine glasses as we watched with anticipation. The aromas of peach, pear
and pineapple emanated from the medium bodied wine along with notes of oak and
spice climaxing with a long finish. |
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“Our hats are off to this team of creative thinkers, who are
willing to stake it all on a concept and a dream.” ~ TB |
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by
Thorsten & Simone Buehrmann
Editor: John
Lomitola
Editor-in-Chief: Ingrid Lemme |
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| © 2008 ~ Seven Stars and Stripes, Inc. |
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