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| Moscow -
Russia |
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World
Level Perfection - Society
April - 2008 |
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7 Stars
& 6 Stripes
Overall - 'Cuisine & Service' |
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The
Ultimate Award:
Seven Stars and
Stripes® |
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| King Jeroboam is described in the Bible as a “man
of great value” and the Ritz Carlton Moscow deemed it appropriate to name
their fine restaurant in his honor. Furthermore, it is the name of an oversized
bottle holding the equivalent of 4.5 liters of wine to which the restaurant
fittingly has an incredible collection of all sizes driven by the Sommelier's
desire to assemble a special compilation of world-class vintages. We were
invited into the extensive wine cellar's presentation/tasting room for a guided
tour of this venerable 'Fort Knox' of liquid gold. Our guide for the event,
Mr.
Alexey Mitrofanov, Chief of Sommelier in the Petrus wine-room, made
absolutely certain that we would be thoroughly educated in the vital nuances
that make this particular presentation room a cut above the rest. It was
impressive to hear that one could order a $68,000 bottle of 1961 Chateau Petrus
Grand Cru to seal the deal for that special businessman's meeting. I
wonder what happened to the three-martini lunch? |
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| As careful as one can be with an inventory of over 800
rare vintage bottles collected over the years from the finest vineyards in the
world, Mitrofanov realized during our tasting a couple of 'corked' bottles of
Chateauneuf-du-Pape. This is definitely where a sommelier earns his keep as he
saved us the discomfiture of discovering the unpleasantries on our own. The
doors of the wine room suddenly swung open and we were escorted by
Restaurant
Manager Ralf Ruenger, to our table in the restaurant to take part in
“cuisine vitale”, the ultimate gastronomic spiritual journey
of physical well being overseen by three-star Michelin Chef Heinz Winkler. It
will be here that we will participate in the new fashionable movement that
takes a holistic approach to nourishment and health. Chef Winkler reigns at
Jeroboam as Capo-di-Capo, and he earned his reputation for being the youngest
chef at 31 yrs, to get three Michelin stars and the first chef to be awarded
Germany's Cross of Honor at his restaurant in Bavaria. Fame and fortune aside,
Chef Winkler has bestowed his incredible knowledge and inspiration on Leonard
Cernko, Chef de Cuisine at Jeroboam Restaurant. With Winkler by his side as
culinary mentor, Chef Cernko has propelled Jeroboam into the forefront of the
Moscow restaurant scene, orchestrating gastronomic perfection and pleasure in a
sort Ballet Russe style. |
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| The crucial turning point in
this culinary performance comes not only with hard work and dedication to the
ideals of his mentor, but also the development of an intuitive and creative
style easily identifiable as Chef Cernko's own. Take for instance the 'over the
top' experience of his famous
Tsar's
Breakfast. This encounter with Russian royal decadence includes Kobe
beefsteak, Parmigiano Reggiano cheese and truffle omelet, foie gras “Au
Torchon” with caramelized apple and pain brioche, Beluga caviar with
blinis, sour cream and quail eggs and Prosciutto di Parma and
cheese. |
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| Jeroboam
Cuisine |
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| You can drink Mimosas made with a bottle of Louis
Roederer Crystal champagne and the whole package will set you back only $700
per person. As we made our way to our table for dinner, we bubbled over with
delightful anticipation realizing that we were now in the hands of master of
his trade. Restaurant Manager Ruenger explained to us that the décor
evokes a sort of Classic Czarist Imperial period, refreshing the senses and
restoring a sense of history considering that fact that the entire structure
rose elegantly from the ashes of the former state-run Intourist Hotel. The
menus were presented and soon we were drawn into the glory of the former 18th
century tavern and as it later became known as Hotel Paris, the popular
gathering spot for Russian writers and poets sharing their creative thoughts.
Our table was attractively set with the finest Robbe & Berking sterling
silver flatware, which sat framing a handsome porcelain plate made by K.P.M.
(Königliche Porzellan-Manufaktur Berlin). It was a silent reminder of what
true sophisticated dining must have been like in the Czar's time. Our server
Ms.
Jelena Knaus elegantly prepared us for the events taking place in Jeroboam
by her unwavering attention and professional knowledge. As a matter of fact
through her apprenticeship, she is a product of the Heinz Winkler school of 7*
service. It is important to also point out that the whole Food and Beverage
operation at the Ritz-Carlton Moscow is supervised by Executive Chef Chris
Southwick, a dedicated well-seasoned American with a judicious plan for
achieving culinary greatness through 'cuisine vitale'. |
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| Jeroboam
Cuisine |
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The gastronomy presented on
this day represented the ultimate in nouveau Russo-French preparations and
variations on that theme. To start with, Chef Cernko spun out his own version
of a Winkler specialty, Variations of Goose Liver. It was offered in four
parts: Goose Liver Parfait with Port Wine Reduction featuring
melt-in-your-mouth fois gras and port wine marinated figs, carnations and
cinnamon. Goose Liver Tort covered in Port Wine Gelee with kohlrabi
inlay, a fine construction of delicate taste. Goose Liver Ravioli with wild
Leek offering a Madeira wine reduction stuffed into the ravioli.
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| And finally, Goose Liver crème Gratinee with
Beets and black root salad with just the right amount of truffle sauce. We
were confident that this medley of different preparations and flavors could
only be matched by certain wines especially chosen to highlight the lush tastes
and so appropriately a 2003 Riesling, TBA Franz Pichler, from the Wachau
on the Danube in Austria could possibly add the right amount of character to
these miniature masterpieces. Pichler makes an exemplary Austrian Riesling
style, finely structured wines with what is called "filigree" fruit, delicate
lace-like clusters of grapes at the peak of readiness. Our next treat was to be
Langoustine Terrine with Lobster Mousse marinated with Basil, Lemon and Sea
Salt. |
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| These small pink crustaceans
resembling crayfish, with a taste and texture closest to lobster were expertly
crafted into an orange glazed roll and served with a salad of orange wedges.
Surprisingly, our sommelier selected a 2005 Ca del Solo, Bonny Doon, a
California counter-cultural icon featuring an underappreciated grape varietal,
Malvasia Bianca. It is noticeably bone-dry with succulent rather than lush or
sweet fruits and a terrific orange blossom nose as if made especially for
Chef
Cernko's Langoustine. |
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| Jeroboam
Cuisine |
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| This was followed-up by a magnificent Caramelized
Sea Scallops with Caper Berries, raisins and Malden Crystal Sea Salt, an
organic salt high in magnesium and calcium. Tender morsels of ivory white
scallops topped with a golden crust of caramelized juices and surrounded by
wedges of unique caper berries and flavorful scallop foam. A bright golden
colored bottle of 2005 Capitel Foscarino, Roberto Anselmi became the
contra-force presenting a complex bouquet, very floral with hints of nuts. It
offered great depth with a slightly spicy, herbaceous character and good
acidity on the finish. It was inevitable that Chef Cernko would now present us
with another healthful seafood selection and he did just that with his
Turbot Filet with Red Butter, Savoy Cabbage and Crayfish. |
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| Jeroboam
Team |
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| Turbot is a delicate fish that pairs well with the
elusive flavors of poached cabbage and fresh water crayfish while being
fortified with the earthy essence of red wine and shallot reduction. This was
truly one of this evening's eating highlights causing me to ask the question,
“How'd I miss this fish all these years”? Alexey the outstanding
sommelier, promptly brought us a glass of straw yellow Chardonnay 2003,
Bründlmayer offering white stone fruits on the nose with a broad
expressive character and a great finish. It was a lovely well-balanced wine to
go with this entrée. |
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| Jeroboam
Cuisine |
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| Finally the dessert selection of the evening came to
us as Apple and Almond Croustillant with Caramel Sorbet in the form of a
triple-decker delicately crisp construction of fresh apples and marzipan. This
creation was flavored with a few streaks of dark golden brown Calvados, a
double distilled spirit made with a mixture of sweet, tart and bitter apples.
The obvious choice for a dessert to hold up to this superstructure is a 1999
Tokaji Eszencia Oremus, a super sweet (six puttonyos) heavy palate, spicy,
honeyed and floral. Very true aromatics though not in the traditional style but
with an endless aftertaste. |
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| Jeroboam 2008 -
Seven Stars and Stripes - Award |
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| After our unique dining experience, we were in the
mood for a nice digestive and perhaps a well-made cigar. Soon enough our
sommelier Alexy appeared with an elaborate 'cordial wagon' in tow followed
closely by our server Jelena with a delicate selection of petit fours. Jelena
made sure that we received our much-needed double espressos with excellent
little cinnamon and crystal sugar stirring sticks. Once Alexy got started, it
was like watching a juggling act during in which he moved silently all the
while decantering various rare cordials for us, a true professional
performance. It was suggested that I try the Millesime Samalens bas Armagnac
1952, a very rare distinct kind of brandy known for its therapeutic value.
In 14th century France it was said that consuming Armagnac “enlivens
the spirit, partaken in moderation, recalls the past to memory, renders men
joyous, preserves youth and retards senility.” My kind of cordial, I
thought! Alexy now suggested a hand rolled cigar to go with the Armagnac for a
fitting end to a World Level Perfection dining experience. |
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by
Thorsten & Edmund Buehrmann
Editor: John
Lomitola
Editor-in-Chief: Ingrid Lemme |
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| © 2008 ~ Seven Stars and Stripes, Inc. |
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