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| American Dream Cuisine™ |
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| Restaurant Stenhus |
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| Schlössle Hotel, Tallinn, Estonia |
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Extraordinary
November - 2005 |
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5 Stars
& 5 Stripes
Cuisine & Service |
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The Ultimate
Award:
Seven Stars and Stripes™ |
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| It was around the 13th century that the foundation for
the Stenhus Restauarant in the Schlössle Hotel was constructed and remains
underground as a kind of Hanseatic hideaway. In those days, the autumn chill
brought about a frenzied gorging on the simple staples that life had to offer
and the unpretentious wish of "May your bread last" was the substitute for
today's 'Bon Appetit'. People hid themselves for the winter and the concept of
fine dining was a function of the hardiness of the whole grain breads, salted
meats and lard, which was supposed to last until the next autumn. |
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| Modern Estonians working
together with their counterparts in Western Europe have raised the level of
culinary awareness to become the focus of a gratifying, worthwhile experience.
It is no secrete that the Stenhus Restaurant headed by Executive Chef
Tõnis Siigur has made it to the 'gastronomic epicenter' with his
inspirational slant on traditional recipes. After all, dining to Estonians is a
serious almost sacred activity as can be seen by the expert way food is
artfully and caringly prepared and served at Stenhus. |
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Tönis Siigur &
Thorsten Buehrmann |
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| Upon entering, atmosphere hits you in the face like a
refreshing cool breeze from deep within the center of the earth. Waking down,
it is easy to feel transported to a sort of Teutonic table of well-heeled
baronial splendor. Heat from an intense roiling fire radiates off the mammoth
wooden beams in the ceiling to provide the correct amount of ambiance conducive
to elegant dining. It is an architecture built of limestone bricks fashioned
into catacomb-like vaulted ceilings that contribute cleverly to a refined
intimacy. "Great place to have brought Simone" I realized too late as I glanced
at my photographer Arno while waiting to be seated. Candlelight and Middle Ages
tapestries made me feel comfortable enough to request a local beer of which the
server immediately suggested a fabulous tasting premium lager, Saku Originaal
that reminded me of a fresh draught beer. Great choice although Arno maintained
that he would have a Kir Royale made with Langois Crémant sparkling
wine. |
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“Upon entering, atmosphere hits you in the face like a
refreshing
cool breeze from deep within the center of the earth” ~
TB |
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“Beef a la Chef with Borettane Onions,
Potato Pudding
and Beef Jus” |
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It wasn't long before hot
towels were brought to the table to freshen up while the Sommelier Sven
suggested the evening's wine selection. Two types of house made breads now
adorned the table along with fresh butter uniquely sprinkled with salt
crystals. Chef Siigur and his team followed with a 'greetings from the kitchen'
of Arugula Leaves with Prociutto, Yellow Cherry Tomatoes and Dill Cukes as a
delightful garden fresh intro to the evening's culinary fare. The 'Ratskeller'
like environment set the tone for the official start of the menu of Frog Leg
"Beignets" in Cream Sauce with Ginger and Basil and a Squid Ink Infusion. This
highlight of the menu came as a surprise and was pared with a fine Riesling
Grand Cru Schoenenbourg, Cave Vinnicole de Ribeauville, Alsace 2000.
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“Heaven on earth! A tender tidbit that cut like butter,
perfectly matched with a sweet and tangy Borettane onion tag-a-long.”
~ TB |
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The long living wine is prone to floral notes and has
sufficient depth and balance to stand up to but not overpower the delicate frog
leg. Hearts of Romaine Caesar Style with Tiger Prawn and Parmesan Cheese
followed in fine fashion. It allowed for the wine to perform equally as well
despite the change in venue. It was now up to Chef Siigur to conjure up what it
takes to transport us gastronomically to the Middle Ages of Tallinn. His
contemporary rendition of Honey Glazed Christmas Salmon with Mizuna Salad and
Pork Belly with Baby Vegetables and Pork Consomme served over Savoy Cabbage
although 'au courant', showed modern creativity in the use of ancient recipes
and ingredients.
The last course was no less innovative and featured an
interesting glimpse into the gifted mind of Chef Siigur. Who would have thought
that Tomato and Strawberry Gazpacho with Basil Ice Cream would even qualify as
a dessert. It surprised us as sweet and savory cacophony of which the
ingredients proved to work together harmoniously and completely. The wine
selection suggested by Sven the Sommelier was a local favorite Põltsamaa
Kuldne, Estonia, which displayed an ability to add another dimension of straw
gold sun ripened apricot and peach along with a strong overripe sweetness with
the character of a German 'auslese'. |
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| Award Hand Out
at the Schlössle Hotel Tallinn, Estonia - Restaurant Stenhus
Award |
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Our evening nearly complete, we strolled past the
kitchen to say goodbye to Chef Siigur and his team as we were leaving in the
morning in the hopes of returning home to Germany with a quick stop in
neighboring Riga, Latvia for business. A cappuccino and double espresso was in
order for us as we retired to the glow of late night embers and restful
respite.
Proosit! |
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by
Thorsten Buehrmann & Arno Goudschaal
Editor: Ingrid
Lemme
Editor-in-Chief: John Lomitola |
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| © 2005 ~ Seven Stars and Stripes, Inc. |
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