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Grand Hotel et de Milan
In Milan, Italy receives |
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Extraordinary |
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Stripes for a World Class Hotel |
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The Ultimate Award:
Seven
Stars and Stripes ™ |
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On my way from the airport to the center of Milan
it occurred to me that in a very subtle way I was being seduced by the splendor
and grandeur of this awesome city. It was to be a thorough seduction, the
kind you read about in romantic novels and see featured in love stories
on the silver screen. My love affair with 'Milano', the elegant fashion
capital of Europe began with an incredible destination that was to become
my home for a few days in January, the Grand Hotel et de Milan. It is located
in perhaps the most sought-after position directly in the center of the
city.
In my mind it was the world of fashion that I expected to overshadow my
visit, and there was to be much more of that aspect throughout my stay here,
but it moved me deeply to be in the presence of such eloquence and undaunted
historical importance. Here we now pass in front of the portal of Milan's
Duomo (Cathedral) - Cathedral Santa Maria Nascente - where Milan's pulse
beats sharp and unbridled and you meet all its peculiarities all at once.
Just around the corner, only a small absorbing walk on Via St. Margherita
and Via Manzoni, is waiting our glamorous home where a stately, well-dressed
doorman attentively works to manage the comings and goings in front of the
hotel. The prospect of simmering in the same pot that has seen the likes
of MARIA CALLAS, RUDOLF NUREYEV and ENRICO CARUSO brings one's persona to
a higher level of cultural awareness. The building itself fits well in the
Via Manzoni with the neighboring styles of architecture while allowing guests
to enjoy the age-old appeal of nineteenth century noble residences. During
the night the brightly lit front of the Grand Hotel et de Milan welcomes
you in a warm, golden illumination, which succeeded in making the seduction
complete.
After our arrival my associate Bernd and I were cordially welcomed with
a warm smile and strong handshake by Mr. Nicola Toso, Assistant Manager
of the Grand Hotel et de Milan. |
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It was instantly obvious
to Bernd and I that we were in the fashion capital of Europe upon
meeting our courteous and elegantly dressed host Nicola. Stylishly
attired in a three button blue business suit fashioned in Milan, Nicola
had that American Dream Partner look as if it were done on purpose! |
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Rolf Staehler & Nicola
Toso |
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A high degree of fluency in English
and German proved a rather satisfying asset for us during our hosted events
throughout our stay.
Nicola immediately recognized our superbly styled RIMOWA™ travel companions,
which held our belongings and confirmed our decision to include the entire
series of brand new suitcases for our travels. Although Bernd had insisted
prior to departure, to travel to Milan in total style with this elegant
assortment of luggage, it was entirely much more than was needed to support
our meager wardrobe for the few days of fashionable pleasure. His motivation
only became apparent, as you will see later on during our fantastic shopping
spree!
It was now time for freshening up and to take a closer look at our elegant
suite. Upon entering we noticed an inspiring fruit platter, with the obligatory
fruit-knife twinkling before us as if to beckon further investigation.
"What a spacious, venerable suite, tall rooms" Bernd mentioned right away,
"full of light, with lofty windows and exclusive historical-ambience-handcrafted
curtains" - I opened the window and inhaled the fresh, promising air of
an adventure just beginning. It’s a special feeling to have a suite
inside the old historical district of Milan in one of the finest Hotels.
We had to hurry - Nicola was awaiting us for the Grand VIP-TOUR.
Bernd mentioned on our way back to the fireplace hall: "Rolf – could
you believe that there is a tiny piano in our Suite?" - "Of course and I
was also impressed by the historical oil paintings – what an stimulating
place"
Our arrival at our meeting place with Nicola was breathtaking and opulent.
He was waiting for us inside one of the large open living rooms of this
grandiose historical former villa, the fireplace hall. You can imagine the
feeling of contentment we experienced while being surrounded by this exclusive
historical ambiance. |
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Bernd Deyerler & Nicola
Toso |
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"Welcome home" - said Nicola with
a wining smile and gave us a brief overview about the Grand Hotel
et de Milan itself - as an inspiring appetizer for our VIP-TOUR.
It is easy to see how the venerable Grand Hotel et de Milan existed
since its inception in 1863 as the meeting place of international
society and celebrities. Nicola continued, “This is because the
gracefulness of the former Milanese ‘casa’ was transformed
in its entirety into the present by careful and loving attention to
detail”.
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To further improve our guest’s
level of comfort, the entire hotel was completely renovated for over two
years and reopened in 1993 to become the state of the art home away from
home.
No matter which special pleasure leads you to Milan, may it be the financial
district, the La Scala Theatre, Via Monte Napoleone, Via della Spiga - just
to mention a few - you will find those attractions only a stone's throw
away from your new home."
After this brief introduction by Nicola it was time to “proof the pudding”
and start with the guided VIP-TOUR
through one of the most magnificent Grand Hotels.
Here inside the fireplace-hall, it's simply up to your own desire - you
can enjoy your privacy - or even savor this important scene and be seen.
What about a nice cup of coffee out of some elite china, served with a friendly
smile by the attentive - but always reticent staff – knowledgeable
in the needs of this special society. - We insist as an American Dream TIP
to inhale this rarefied atmosphere.
As we continued on, a strange feeling overcame us as if we were being shadowed
by some unseen presence. Nicola calmed us by commenting that these were
exactly the same hall and lobbies that the great Verdi had strolled during
his lengthy visit and may still be historically ‘alive’ with the
pulse his greatness. Our host took us through a variety of elaborately decorated
rooms and suites from many different periods reflecting diverse styles from
Art Nouveau to Art Deco. He commented that one could spend weeks discovering
something new and exciting every day at the Hotel et de Milan. |
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We stopped by the Maria Callas Suite,
the very same one used by her each time she visited Milan to sing
at La Scala. You will still find the same historical period furniture
including root wooden cabinets, heavy parquet floors covered with
handcrafted carpets of tremendous value.
I have to mention the very best Italian marble inside each spacious
bath-room that includes almost every amenity you can imagine is extraordinary;
and don't forget the comfortable canopy bed. |
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Maria Callas Suite |
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- Maybe Ms
Callas was as most of the other guests, a returning visitor due to the affectionate
turn down service with the accurately aligned white linen bathrobe and slippers
- which warmly welcomed her back after each grandiose performance at La
Scala.
- Maybe also due to the Swiss Chocolate bedtime sweets, which Bernd loved
so much and that I never had a chance to taste, but this must be our secret.
It was time to move on after so much historical detail but according to
Nicola there was more to come. He now presented us with the Royal Giuseppe
Verdi Suite to enjoy the impressive atmosphere of an ancient and noble past.
“This is an example of our unique method of hospitality,” he said
with tremendous pride. |
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The Royal Suite of Giuseppe Verdi |
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My first impression was 'world level
perfection' - but lets start from the beginning: Way back, before
1863, it was the Suite 105 on the first floor of then "Albergo di
Milano", mentioned before as the former Milanese "casa", where Giuseppe
Verdi decided to stay.
At this time he left his countryside residence and decided to live
and work in town. In 1863 "Albergo di Milano" became the Grand Hotel
et de Milan, where he continued to stay in his suite for several more
years. Since then, it's still the reputation of the age-old Milanese
residence that attracts not only the glory names of show business
but others as well.
Bernd mentioned right away to gaze at the stucco-ceiling and the impressive
historic chandelier, which spans the time-honored interior like a
baldachin - has that something to do with Swiss-chocolate? |
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21st Century
meets History - as a privileged guest you enjoy the amenities of today
with the ambience of the past. All rooms are still equipped with the original
furniture, restored during the recent renovation, recreating the unique
environment, which gives you the opportunity to relive.
As you can probably imagine, the American Dream Team did its best to experience
it all. We found only the most sophisticated materials such as filigreed
carvings, silk wallpaper and an original Verdi portrait with its costly
gold plated frame. We insist as an American Dream Hot Tip, to attend
a Verdi performance at La Scala and stay overnight in his suite for a truly
unforgettable experience!
To stay in the 'Verdi
Suite' and breath in the atmosphere, in the very same environment where
one of the best known, loved and performed composers lived and created his
music is one of the rare moments in life worth remembering. Thanks to the
preservation minded management of the Hotel et de Milan this dream is within
reach of anyone with desire. |
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An old traditional story expresses
the heartfelt admiration regarding Giuseppe Verdi who was in those
days not only a great composer but also a national hero of Italy.
The Milanese people were so enamored with Verdi that on 5th February
1887 after the premiere of the famous "Othello" the crowd itself pulled
his carriage from the theatre "La Scala" back to the hotel blessing
him for his brilliant performance. The maestro then expressed his
gratitude by appearing at the balcony of this suite accompanied by
the famous Tenor Tamagno, presenting some of the opera's arias.
You still can imagine Verdi, on the balcony of his suite at the Grand
Hotel et de Milan waving to an enthusiastic crowd gathered below acclaiming
him for one of his terrific performances. |
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Bernd Deyerler and the place where La Traviata
has been written by Verdi |
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| But enough for now about the past - Nicola brought
us back on track and quickly we where guided into the Verdi-lounge. I have
to say that the Grand Hotel et de Milan did some great re-creation work
transforming Verdi's Living room into a state of the art conference room
- or what about a culinary experience - everything is possible. Anything?
Almost, imagine having a meeting with up to 12 clients inside the historical
Puccini-Lounge where your are able to beam a screen out of the ceiling to
illustrate your presentation with the latest Media - technology just like
that. All together the Grand Hotel has three Meeting and Banquet rooms -
we are sure they will fit your needs - please feel free to take a
closer look - , if you need a break at the Falstaff bar or the cuisine
restaurant they are just a few steps away, so come on follow us: |
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| Nicola took us up to the bar and
explained us that the Falstaff Bar is an elegant and refined drawing-room,
cozy and welcoming for a pleasant stay, the perfect spot for an aperitif.
A bronze statue adorns the Bar, which became a centre of the Milanese
High Society. |
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Falstaff Bar and Lounge |
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It is also the place during the famous
fashion weeks of Milan where the top models and designers chat about
the latest creations and gossip a little about the scene. Bernd did
not hesitate to mix with the wild and talkative crowd to get the hippest
fashion ideas for his next shopping tour. |
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Should my intuitions be right, maybe
Bernd pre-planed some extra suitcase capacity in our RIMOWA™ Suitcase
collection for that very reason.
The American Bar is right next to the Falstaff Bar and a real temptation
for every one who is not only interested on the latest cocktail developments.
Mr. Giovanni de Vecchis, the bar manager, analyzed my preferences with only
a few questions and created a cool, bracing and well tasting special aperitif
out of his huge portfolio. |
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American Dream Tip:
Why not try out a Negroni (Campari, vermouth and Gin on the rocks),
a very fashionable drink, which Giovanni created for me. You will
explore three interlocking columns, it's zesty and sharp all at once;
you will enjoy the feeling of an immediate restart to your day!
- We insist that Giovanni will be your creative director, our heartfelt
compliments to Mr. Giovanni de Vecchis.
Bernd indulged a "Falstaff" aperitif - a special house cocktail. As
you can see he is also in love with Giovanni's choice. |
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Bernd Deyerler & Giovanni de Vecchis |
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| The American (Dream) Bar is the
perfect spot for a cocktail, a quick snack or a Sunday Brunch. We decided
with Nicola to share the pleasure of the other guests and stay for a moment.
As you know there are only a few of these instants where strangers become
friends, but this special 'Milan Moment' became a part of our hearts. |
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| As I learned in the short time that
we were in Milan, design doesn't end with automobiles or fashion and
even the bartenders originate the creation of an aperitif according
to your desire. That's why you have to be in a constant dialogue with
them - which might take hours sometimes. |
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Mr.
Giovanni de Vecchis
conjures specialties |
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While discussing the secret recipes
of his personal favorites, Giovanni prepared us for the places to
be in Milanese nightlife. Therefore Bernd convinced me to stop with
the endless discussion of the delicious aperitifs and simply listen
for a while! |
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| From here we went on with our VIP-TOUR
through the Grand Hotel et de Milan and stopped at the respectable Restaurant
"Don Carlos". Just after fashion, the Milanese care deeply about food, or
should we say cuisine - we will attempt to discuss this issue later on.
Some Milanese are quite regimented about where and when they dine and tend
to stick to their excellent native Italian style cooking, rather than international
cuisine. Regarding this case, Milan has some of the best cuisine- temples
that Italy has to offer. If you are in the hunt for the real thing, get
away from the so called "trendy-places", relax and find a simple, true trattoria
or restaurant serving the local Milanese-cuisine. If you are about to make
your choice, just follow us: |
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| American Dream Cuisine™
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Ristorante
Don Carlos at the
Grand Hotel et de Milan, Italy receives |
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Extraordinaire |
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5 Stars &
Stripes for
Extraordinaire Cuisine & Service |
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The Ultimate
Award:
Seven Stars and Stripes™ |
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It was the spirit of Maestro Giuseppe
Verdi who was a steady guest of the Grand Hotel et de Milan and the Restaurant
"Don Carlos" for more than twenty years that we came to honor.
My first impression was one of inspiration and awe as we were introduced
to Mr. Elvis Shehi the Restaurant Manager by our host Nicola, who then made
a graceful exit as if on stage. |
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Mr. Shehi took over and gave as a
brief first impression about the Restaurant: The exquisite dishes
are highlighted by the dappled affect of its antique silver candelabra,
in a comfortable refined and elegant setting, revived by pictures,
sketches and décor coming from the 'La Scala Museum'.
We where guided to the table you are able to see on right. No doubt
- perfectly arranged - it resisted even Bernd's known critical probing
views and he agreed too. |
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The numerous pictures on the wall
show former Stars like Maria Callas and most of them where even personally
signed. Mr. Shehi explained us, that some of the pictures are frequently
exchanged with the 'La Scala Museum'.
You might even have a chance to meet some of the celebrities while enjoying
the extensive hotel facilities. Before dinner we were invited to excursion
into the ancient Roman ruins under the restaurant and wine cellar - would
you like to join us? |
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The wine cellar is a real treasury.
Valuable and vibrant wines from all over the world - with a focus
on Italian vintages - are kept safe and well tempered under the restaurant.
The cellar it self is reinforced by the remains of the Roman walls,
which Emperor Massimiano had erected in 250 A.D. all around the city
of Milan for defense; very far reaching measures! |
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| Here in this historical wine vault
Nicola re-emerged again and presented to us right away with the wine treasures
of the "Caruso". He showed to us all the wonderful secretes that you are
invited to discover on your next trip to Milan. |
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Bernd Deyerler & Konstantinos
Stavroulakis |
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We were now introduced
to Mr. Konstantinos Stavroulakis the sommelier. What a brilliant expert
- he presented to us the "Chianti Castello di Ama" 1997, which was
designated for our dinner. |
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Nicola Toso & Konstantinos
Stavroulakis
& Rolf Staehler |
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The Castello di Ama estate operates
90 hectares (222 acres) of specialized vineyards at altitudes ranging from
the 390 (1,279 ft.) of Vigneto Bertinga to the 530 meters (1,739 ft.) of
Vingeto Bellavista. The soil is clayey-calcareous and rich in crumbled stone.
Fifty-five hectares (136 acres) are entered on the Chianti Classico DOCG
register.
But finally - let's start with the dinner. No doubt that "Champagne Laurent
Perrier" Brut as an apéritif was a great choice with its light, refreshing
and semi dry taste. It was selected by Mr. Konstantinos Stavroulakis and
became for this evening our favorite Champagne not only to the extensive
description of the sommelier: |
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| Champagne is the northernmost wine-producing
region of France. It is a small beautiful area of land, representing
only 5.6% of A.O.C-registered land and only 3.5% of French land used
for wine growing (Source: C.I.V.C.*, Banque de France.). Output is
limited (both in terms of yield per hectare and pressing and pressurage*)
in order to ensure the quality of the champagne designation. Wines
produced under the designation are thus totally dependent on this
land and are limited to the quantities of grapes produced as approved
by the INAO, the Institut National des Appellations d'Origine. |
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Laurant-Perrier was the first champagne
house to introduce a large proportion of Chardonnay - a minority grape
in the region - into the blend of its Brut L-P, the true signature
of the Laurent-Perrier style.
It has also created Ultra-Brut which is a rare specialty I haven't
seen in many places served. It is the natural descendent of the 'Grand
Vin sans sucre' (unsweetened wine) of the 19th century that requires
the subtle skill of assembling high-quality grapes, since this wine
can only be made from very mature grapes with low acid content. |
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| Mrs. Monia Greco started serving
us with a warm smile and professional manner beginning with "Dedicated to
Aimo" (pictured): Tagliatelle pasta with pheasant ragout and dried mushrooms. |
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For me it was "The spelt Guardian":
Spelt spaghetti with anchovies, grilled sweet peppers and bread crumbs
with cognac. I recalled that after sampling many pasta dishes around
the world, the definition of "al dente" which means "to the bite"
has never been so clear here. I decided to follow up with my own pasta
experiments at home. This magnificent performance was followed by:
"Beetroots for the King": Lobster and beetroots on smoked potatoes
and chervil sauce. The beetroots dominated the flavor studded with
the citrus undertones of chervil. For Bernd it was breaded and fried
fois gras with red onions and saffron sauce. A traditional rendition
of a delicacy spiced up with the delicate flavor of saffron. |
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Our wine selection for this fine
course was "Gewurztraminer Vendange Tardives" 2000 Gruss. It offered pale
straw color with oily citrus and rose petals on the nose. The palate was
rich yet mellow, fine and subtle and clean with concentrated and long lingering
complex flavors.
Our palates were thoroughly conditioned now to expect the unexpected, and
we now eagerly awaited our next surprise. During our dinner we asserted
that in the "Don Carlos" culinary expertise and impeccable service is combined
with an atmosphere of bygone days. A very experienced and well trained team
serves the guests and I was very pleased by the charming very personal service
that fits perfectly to the romantic ambience of the scene. |
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| My next course was Anastasia sage-flavored
sturgeon with caviar on potato chips and vodka gelee. The very light
taste of Vodka worked well to support the other components. To find
the underlying cause of this interesting combination I could not resist
asking for some more Vodka jelly! For experimental purposes it was
only to convince myself to identify the source of the light Vodka
taste. In turn it was the flavor of the feathery light vodka gelee
that complimented the robust taste of the caviar. |
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Our next wine paring was the L'Altro"
Chardonnay Pio Cesare 2002, surprisingly complex, smooth and opulent in
character. It is delicate and fruity, offering banana and tropical fruit
with yellow and green tints.
For Bernd it was the Michelangelo: Wild Boar chops in Chianti wine and cinnamon
with mint flan, which proved to offer untamed heartiness with the refinement
of a carefully crafted Chianti. Bernd tried to learn the recipe because
I think he was maybe a little jealous on this sauce!
For this robust entrée it had to be paired with the "Chianti Castello
di Ama" Chianti 1997. This excellent selection offered deep garnet red color
with pure highlights of plum, cherry and cloves, truly an estate quality
wine.
The continuous underlying theme of original flavors with different complex
components is recognizable throughout the entire creative dining event. |
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The originality continued with the
desert course of beetroot Bavarian cream with carrots mousse and tobacco
sauce. A refreshing and also surprising finale with well prepared
"coffee beans", which is the link to the coming Espresso.
The ethereal lightness of the beetroot cream proved comfortably sweet
with the carrot mousse offering an herbal hint for balance. We thought
that the Executive Chef was surely inspired by our Bavarian heritage
as reflected in his cuisine. |
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| It wasn't difficult to see at this
point that creativity, originality and intense flavor were the main ingredients
in this extraordinary culinary performance. |
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| As I prepared for my dessert course
I looked up to see the Chef himself approaching to serve me. It was
a chestnut turnover, combining a crisp and elegant taste with a surprising
core of chestnut mousse. We agreed it was indeed a feast for the eyes
as well as for the palate. I really enjoyed this opportune moment
chatting with the Chef about his secrets. |
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| At the end Bernd couldn't resist
to ask for the famous Italian specialty, Gelato. The chef smiled and served
NOSTRI GELIATI (a wonderful mélange of Yogurt, cream, almonds, chocolate
and ginger). It was our very own Italian ending to a delicious firework
of specialties complimented by strong espresso with perfect crema. To all
non Milanese cuisine experts, crema is the creamy top of an espresso that
guarantees the reincarnation from a normal espresso into a real Italian
specialty. |
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Monia Greco & Edoardo
Ferrera & Elvis Shehi |
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It was not only the tasteful and
noble decor of the Restaurant, and the historical flair of the world
of Operas, but there were also some wonderful people heavily involved.
The American Dream Magazine Showcase of Stars presents:
Former Chef de cuisine, Mr. Edoardo Ferrera, the art-director in white
was the creator of all these dishes, which where so incredibly friendly
to our palate. Mr. Elvis Shehi, to the right is managing the "Caruso"
and took care of the well being of all his guests on this evening.
On the left side Mrs. Monia Greco served and explained the dishes
and the beverages in her skilful and friendly way. She and Mr. Konstantinos
Stavroulakis, (we met him some pictures before demonstrating a bottle
of wine to Bernd), advise and instruct their guests with much attention
and competence. |
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The American Dream Team Summary:
We were thrilled to have discovered the "Don Carlos" for you, where Italian
specialties meet cuisine in perfection and are served in a calm, personal
ambiance. The "Don Carlos" is for sure one of the most exclusive restaurants
in Milan, where Haute Cuisine is served or should we say, celebrated. A
decidedly warm atmosphere, individualized service with deep knowledge about
the served dishes and of course the great Chef himself, taking personally
time to discuss each of the courses with us always striving for improvement
and uniqueness, are the factors that contribute to overall success. |
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After a refreshing night, with no
bedtime sweets for me but two for Bernd -
I
decided to do some exercise before breakfast. Let's say I tried
it for a few minutes to ease my conscience, but for someone who is
willing to exercise there is a variety of modern work-out machines
in the gym. The reoccurring thought of breakfast successfully overshadowed
my good intentions.
If you enter the "Caruso" and sneak around, you can imagine that in
former times on the raised balcony-like area many famous, good-tempered
singers might have given a song to a thankful audience. |
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The aroma of freshly brewed
coffee roasted to perfection and served in style, called us to the table.
Simultaneously, Bernd was inspired to try some of the large selection of
typical Italian fine Prosciutto, air dried Salami and Cheese. I couldn't
resist ordering a nice, perfectly made omelet and as a special test for
our American readers, I ordered some bacon. I discovered that they know
how to do it right especially when you jump start the day with a glass of
Villa Sandi Prosecco Spumante di Valdobbiadene DOC. A special Italian sparkling
wine out of the foothills of the Montello with a bouquet of intense fruit
offering strong scents of ripe golden apple, while finishing fresh and lightly
mouth-filling.
A little further on, the Caruso is also the ideal setting for business-lunches
or gourmet-meetings during a lunch-break. The foliage of the piazza outside
affords the bright room a pleasant aura of a 'Jardin d'Hiver' and during
warmer months it's even possible to dine outdoors. Our intensive breakfast
provided plenty of time for Bernd and me to do some planning to see some
of the exiting sights of Milan, full of history and fashion. |
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| Our Fashion tour began actually inside
the Grand Hotel et de Milan - yes you heard it right. Fashion designers
have the possibility to present their current and historic fashion
in some of the old wooden luxury displays. This old litter is decorating
sections of the Fire Place Hall. In earlier centuries, it gave the
impression of honorable transportation. |
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Historic fashion display |
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The changing exhibitions are attracting
every lady who is interested in the latest style - sometimes to the
amusement of the gentlemen, who have the honor to make it possible.
All these little details and the glamorous classic design make the
hotel the place to be for the famous fashion gurus. I am convinced
it is the most stylish location in Milan. |
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Roundwalk - A world in fashion
This famous fashion district of Milan starts immediately in front of the
Grand Hotel et de Milan. |
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Rolf Staehler - If looks could kill |
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The tall fashion shop
windows in trendy Milan are concentrated in the streets of the conveniently
central area beginning just 10 minutes from Piazza della Scala and
running along Via Monte Napoleone, Via Sant' Andrea, Via della Spiga.
Those who come from the outskirts of Milan can reach the area easily
by the yellow subway line number 3, getting off at the Monte Napoleone
stop. We started with the most exclusive shops in the "Triangolo d'Oro",
the Golden Triangle, between the places della Scala, Cavour and San
Babila. |
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| As a good starting point we
discovered the Via Manzoni, a road that can only be described as the "Armani-Ville".
A visit to the Armani showroom can get you your very own Giorgio Armani
lifestyle tailored suit. It is not just the clothes but flowers, books and
the latest furnishings that are available too. It's definitely the flagship
store where you can have the best overview about the current fashion collection.
It was hard to get myself out of the store. Sorry Bernd, if looks and fashion
could kill! |
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| While you are at Armani, you might
want to take some time to dine at the famous Japanese restaurant Nobu, or
wander into the Trussardi Building. Not only a showroom for leather designs,
it includes a restaurant, café, bar and a wonderful view of the most
famous square of all Milan- the Piazza del Escala. Enjoy a light cocktail
at this venerable landmark. Both Nobu and Trussardi are impossibly trendy
and provide the fashion community with somewhere to exchange gossip about
the latest trends. |
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The excitement of it
all has created a strong desire to join in the fray and purchase some
of the latest designs for our personal wardrobe.
It all begins to make sense now as to why Bernd transported the entire
collection of half empty Rimowa suitcases all the way from home. The
extra space was expected to satisfy a secret impulse for designer
clothes. What do you think of Bernd's new image! |
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Bernd Deyerler - If looks could kill |
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| Traversing all those streets can
lead you to the most elegant Via della Spiga where you find shops like Bulgari,
Roberto Cavalli and Gianfranco Ferré. We are in very serious danger
of becoming seduced by the fancy display windows of those exclusive shops
and we are thankful that we are here without our ladies. Can you imagine
what our trip to Milan would maybe "cost" us with a few more weeks of our
spare time? |
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Besides lots of hip fashion advertisements,
you also come across innovative design ideas like this show window,
where a young lady is jumping through a newspaper. The artistic way
to present the best in fashion is worth a walk around this famous
area alone. Take your time!
While you're in the Golden Triangle, don't forget to take a sneak
at the antique shops and modern art galleries that lurk behind today's
clothes stores. The tranquility of the 18th-century side streets,
particularly the Via Borgospesso, provides a necessary breather from
all the fashion, but be warned! Here image is everything. |
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| Be prepared to be scrutinized from head to toe,
and look your best - (as this young man in our photo obviously wasn't concerned)
- or boutique staff won't give you a second glance. I really liked the scene
when the construction workers had hard times focusing on their work while
wraith-like beauties pass in full view dressed in the latest creations.
Even if your Italian stretches no further than "Ciao Bella", make sure that
you look the part. |
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| Round off your shopping experience
at the hip Corso Como 10, an ideal venue for those with a taste for
the alternative in shopping. Here, you can fill the design gaps in
your home as well as your wardrobe, and sample some modern Italian
house design. There are exclusive ranges of cool and exotic items
such as Indian candles, oriental fabrics and modern Italian furnishings.
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| Of course for the major fashions brands opening
flagship stores here make sense when licensing and manufacturing links with
Italy already exist. Alexander McQueen is part of the Gucci empire Gibo,
one of Italy's largest manufacturing companies. The Burberry designer Christopher
Bailey lives and works in Milan and Jimmy Choo's sassy shoes and handbags
are produced exclusively in Venice and Florence. |
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Yves Saint Laurent - Rolf Staehler |
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In Vivienne Westwood's case, Italy
produces all clothing and accessories through licenses. Also Yves
Saint Laurent has strong links to the Italian past and present of
fashion.
We didn't hesitate to try this new collection and I sampled the newest
styles of neckwear and completed my collection of classic and high
end shirts.
Bernd reached out for the classic brown leather pair of shoes together
with a modern cut of casual jacket. It was good that our new Rimowa
companions were offering so much space for this adventure although
I still had to lend my medium sized suitcase to Bernd! |
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After many miles of fashion and
other most desirable subjects, we decided to enter the heart of Milanese
historic shopping temples. The Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, to the north
of Piazza Duthe lively omo, is one of the world's most elegant shopping
malls and one of the first buildings in Europe to use iron and glass as
structural elements. Here you will find not only stylish cafés, restaurants
and shops its also a place to be completely absorbed in.
As the world's first shopping mall, the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele, was
built in Milan in 1878. But this Galleria was erected before electricity,
before cars, before air conditioning even before the American Dream Show. |
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The architect Mengoni built an arched
glass roof over the intersection of two major Milan streets. The 4-story
domed glass roof connected the tops of existing commercial buildings,
which faced inward to beautiful tiled walkways. The glass arcade was
a luxury to 19th century shoppers. No more rain and wind to walk through
and it was beautiful and so useful, like today. The Galleria helped
Milan become a fashion capital by attracting designer shops and stylish
society to its protected arcade.
Though the four arched exits have no doors, they open onto the famous
Duomo Cathedral and the world’s most prestigious opera house,
La Scala. The Galleria has a unique Italian albergo diurno, or daytime
hotel, where you can take an hour's nap, take a bath, get a haircut,
or have your clothes pressed, steamed and ironed. After our shopping
experience I liked the idea of being refreshed for the upcoming evening.
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After a century, the Galleria Vittorio
Emanuele is still a very popular place to go on Sunday afternoons to meet
friends and to show off your best fashions for lunch, coffee, or window
shopping. Sound familiar? Somehow it has a touch of main street in the Hamptons.
I enjoyed the liveliness and colorfulness of the scene while Bernd couldn’t
stop shooting all this rich beauty with his brand new camera. I could rest
for hours here!
Not even the architecture but also the fine exclusive shops featuring luxury
products like superior Italian perfume, classic sweets and again high-class
designer clothes that are beautifully presented and impressive. |
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Galleria
Vittorio Emanuele II |
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While watching from
curbside tables belonging to the Galleria's many bars and restaurants,
one can feel the pulse of the heart of the city of Milan. The special
bars of Milan are inspiring places to chat, to exchange the latest
news, meet and be met, and of course to eat while you are "people
watching" and enjoy your appropriate Milanese aperitif. |
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Galleria
Vittorio Emanuele II |
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After leaving the Galleria we followed
the Via Dante, which passes some interesting museums to visit the "Civica
Galleria d’Arte Moderna", with 19th and 20th century works. Also quite
interesting is the "Civiche Raccolte Archeologiche" with Greek and Roman
archeological samples the "Museo Poldi Pezzoli" with Italian and foreign
works and "Pinacoteca Ambrosiana" with Leonardo, Tiziano, Botticelli and
Caravaggio works.
But maybe the real art objects are the policemen in charge of enforcing
some rules in the lively streets around the area. Dressed by Armani they
seem to fit the image as you can see this gentleman in the picture. |
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If you decide to take a rental car
and drive around, be aware of a meditation lifestyle on the streets,
which reflects the pulse of the City.
Frequently visited shops, and the traffic mixture of pedestrian, motorbikes,
automobiles and trams help to create the unique lively Southern European
atmosphere.
But, If you think that New Jersey’s driver are somewhat strange,
believe me Italian drivers are famous for their impulsive way of driving
making Milan itself the melting point of a unique style of driving.
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An anonymous Armani model? |
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| Our next stop was just minutes away,
The Teatro alla Scala or the La Scala opera house, as it is typically known.
It first opened in 1778 and was the scene of many famous operatic first
nights throughout the 19th and 20th centuries. The La Scala was heavily
damaged in World War II, it reopened in 1946, and you can enjoy the opera,
theatre, ballet and concerts here year-round, except during August. |
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Inside
the Cathedral |
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The Cathedral shows
us the Lombard's preference for an openhanded facade. It has about
2000 sculptures and innumerable spires and pinnacles. American Dream
Tip: Don't miss a visit to the Cathedral's roof and interior, you'll
be rewarded by a wonderful landscape view of Milan and labor intensive
detail from within.
To escape from the restlessness and the bustle of the town it takes
just a few steps into the Cathedral. Here between the wonderful altars,
frescos and statues reigns a stillness and peacefulness that gives
back your strength and joyfulness to go out again.
I really enjoyed early evening in the cafes in front of the cathedral
during our Milan stay, especially when the sun was bathing this magnificent
monument in a light yellow hue. |
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| When our walk round the city came to an end we
still hadn't enjoyed one of the most important rituals for Milanese residents.
After work, many Italians will stop in a bar for an “aperitivo”,
which is a drink accompanied by bar-snacks. So Bernd almost had to force
me to refresh in one of the most popular bars in the city center, Zucca.
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Campari - Founded at Cafe Zucca
It was the favorite place of Giuseppe Verdi and Arturo Toscanini, who used
to stop here after a glorious performance at la Scala. Dudovich and Carrà
often stayed until the late hours, and King Umberto the First loved to come
here because in Zucca you can get the best coffee that is available in Milan.
The great canvas master Boccioni even portrayed it in the famous painting
"The Brawl in the Galleria". Many people of distinction loved it in the
past; "Zucca in Galleria" is still a fascinating place of today because
its guests find themselves in a setting, which exudes culture and history. |
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| Presently, this first Milanese café
belongs to the Society of Italian Historical Establishment and for more
than a century it has witnessed the repeated succession of the prestigious
Campari and Zucca trademarks that have alternately graced its walls. In
January 1996 it became "Zucca in Galleria" once again. The café makes
one weird claim to fame: its shop windows have been smashed 86 times over
40 years of political unrest! Today times have changed and the Galleria
with its shops and bars is seen as the pearl of Italian culture. It is one
of the places which made Milan famous as a city for socializing while sipping
Campari - a well-known drink used for cocktails or tasted on its own - was
invented here in 1867. Zucca, which has made its Milanese identity a point
of reference for the company promoted Campari as a Milanese ritual. Once
it caught on, it perfectly concurred with the style of the Miani family,
the owners of the café who are staunch upholders of ceremony and
tradition. |
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The owner Mr. Orlando Chiari who
within a split second created a warm and charming atmosphere personally
welcomed us. What a Gentleman! His open friendliness and noble elegance
accompanied by his beautiful and lively wife impressed me.
During this warm chat we got deeper into the history of Zucca. Orlando
has a profound knowledge about every detail regarding this historic
bar – he told us, that he even wrote a book: “ Campari Zucca
Miani:
135
years of Milanese history” – and it’s available
in English too, a copy of which is now bedecking my private bookshelf.
Our American Dream TIP – try to see Orlando and ask for a copy
of his book that even has a collection of signatures of well know
celebrities who joined his bar next to an exclusive cocktail selection.
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Orlando Chiari & Bernd Deyerler |
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| Together we enjoyed
his invitation while sipping the exciting 'Rabarbaro
Zucca'. Zucca, a classic aperitif, has a pleasant and delicate taste
with only 16% alcoholic graduation. Choose the natural taste of Zucca and
mix it with sparkling water or shake it with ice cubes. Add Vanil, the vanilla-flavoured
liqueur and... Have a good Zucca! As an aperitif it is enjoyed cold with
mineral water and ice. As a "digestivo" the Zucca is served steam-warmed
or with little boiling water! Can you imagine? Bernd promised to try the
warm alternative at home. |
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It has always been custom for Milanese
society to drink an aperitif while leaning against the inventive wood-inlaid
bar designed by Eugenio Quarti, a famous turn-of-the-century cabinet-marker.
But we wouldn’t be the American Dream Team if we couldn’t
have tried something new for you: The newly invented “Zucca”-
Lavazza Cappuccino and Espresso – just ask Orlando and he will
personally take care of your unique creation. He is able to initialize
your very own „Mission to Espresso“ by creating a Cappuccino
or Espresso that will lead your imagination to an unknown planet were
gravity doesn’t belong. Bernd and I had to look twice due to
the new Zucca aperitif after we thought that we might have seen an
apparition. But it’s true – gravity is out of order if Orlando
is your Starfleet commander and trans-warps your Lavazza Cappuccino
into a new dimension. |
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Further on Orlando told us, that
coffee - and above all the espresso - is something that sets Italy apart
from other countries. To quote de Talleyrand, “Coffee is to Italy,
what champagne is to France”. Agatha Christie conveys the same concept
by means of contrast: “Coffee in England always tastes like a chemistry
experiment”. In England, a cup of coffee generally means a lot of liquid,
sitting down and having a good chat. In Italy, an espresso is just 30 ml
of coffee, containing 1.5 grams of soluble substances, and zero calories.
If you’re not interested in shopping then maybe you are interested
at the fashion society. A good place to find it is in Porta Garibaldi, where
you’ll discover "l'Hollywood", the historic club always full of models
and celebrities; another interesting night club in this area is "l'Hoolappaloosa",
which is more of a student hangout where you can dance on the tables.
For now it was time to leave but we’ll be back, from out of space.
As we knew from our Concierge at the Grand, there are in general two districts,
which have all the top venues - the Brera north of the Duomo, or the Navigli
on the canals designed by Leonardo da Vinci. Wander along the Conca del
Naviglio for bars such as the Tribeca or Biciclette. My good friend Bernd
- Mr. Nightfly - and I decided to choose the Il Gattopardo Café for
the all encompassing fun part of our review, a place which was strongly
recommended by our Concierge at the Grand. |
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Nightlife in Milan
- Il Gattopardo Café
We were welcomed by the general manager Mr. Davide as we entered the hottest
nightclub in the heart of Milan. There are not many places in Europe to
spend a great evening with the fashion crowd presented in an extraordinary
interior illumination. Il Gattopardo Café, Via Piero della Francesca
17 is located in a deconsecrated church in the upwardly mobile northwest
of the center. It is still the haunt of the idle rich and upwardly mobile
Milanese youth and it is essential to make reservations in advance. Hip
music and a cool ambience are the keynotes, which will make your stay as
special as our extraordinary experience. |
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It was opened to the public in September
2001, after a yearlong restoration that was aimed at preserving the
monument's architectural uniqueness while modifying the space to new
use. We believe it really deserves to be seen and is a great place
to dance the night away.
”Where fashion meets music” can be the theme of this club,
which is the brainchild of a group of young businessmen whose backgrounds
are in the entertainment and fashion industries. The dynamic synergy
of their past expertise gives "Il Gattopardo café" its unique
energy and atmosphere. |
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Il
Gattopardo VIP-TOUR |
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| The name was chosen
because the architecture of the building and the club's décor recall
the luxury and the glitz of Sicilian palaces of the Bourbon era. The heart
of the club is the bar where besides cocktails, delicious small appetizers
are offered to the guests for free. This is a typical Milanese tradition,
which you can enjoy in most bars in Northern Italy. For some, it even replaces
the dinner. |
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Rolf Stähler
- Il Gattopardo VIP-TOUR |
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While studying the
abundant variety of appetizers, Mr. Davide invited us to taste a Mojito,
the typical Cuban cocktail. It is made with 2-3 oz Light rum, fresh limejuice
of 1 Lime (1 oz), 2 tsp of brown sugar, 2-4 Mint sprigs and some Soda water.
The Il Gattopardo is a must-see and a great place for an aperitif or late
night dance. When Bernd left, I promised him not to disappoint the dancing
crowd while he is absent. It was a late night of fun in one of the 'Pleasure
Domes' of Milan!
Oh what a night! After a night like this I yearned for a cozy bath and great
breakfast while Bernd spent his time in the fitness club of the hotel. While
enjoying the wonderful ambiance in the bathroom listening to music by George
Gershwin and dreaming of the 'Good Old Times' I recovered easily. Slightly
dancing from the bathroom to the bedroom I had to recognize that Bernd already
ate his delicious bedtime-sweets as well as mine. There must be something
good about it and I promised myself to ask Nicola for the vendor of this
fine chocolate. I would love to surprise the family with this little extra.
A delicious breakfast followed where I met Bernd again who seemed empowered
by his fitness experience (and energized by the bedtime sweets).
As a last point on our journey through Milan we have been invited to the
brand-new STRAF design hotel in the very heart of Milan next to the Cathedral. |
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Excursion into
modern styles - Straf Design Hotel
Near to the Duomo, well hidden amongst the huge historic buildings, you
can find one of the new “Boutique” design hotels of this world:
STRAF
Mr. Massimo Santilli the room division manager, gave us a short glance around.
The purpose was a design with simplicity and love for purism that aims to
not stress your senses with too many intense colors. The elements of natural
stone, water and light give you the chance to relax from the busy central
quarters of Milan where the Straf is located. |
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Elegance
and simplicity in the Design Hotel Straf |
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I have never seen such smart and
simple-to-use technical equipment in a room. Touch screens offer all
types of information and service. The unique forms in the bathroom
where all the equipment has been uniquely designed for the STRAF impressed
Bernd. Mr. Sanitilli proudly explained the conceptual details while
Bernd didn’t hesitate once again to try the bedtime-sweets on
the night table. Am I right Bernd? |
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| From colorful beauty to the cool
chill out atmosphere, we have experienced these contrasts in Milan and it
all comes together in a perfect Mélange. Don't miss it! It's more
then worth a try – it’s a must. |
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by
Rolf Staehler & Bernd Deyerler
Editor-in-Chief: John Lomitola
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