|
|
|
|
|
|
 |
|
|
 |
|
| Abu
Dhabi, U.A.E |
|
Society -
Extraordinary
October - 2007 |
|
6
Stars & 5 Stripes
Cuisine & Service |
|
 |
|
The Ultimate Award:
Seven Stars and Stripes® |
|
|
|
| Walking into
Sayad
Restaurant at the Emirates Palace is like entering an underwater world
complete with coral reefs, sea fans, giant clam shells and schools of fish all
without even getting wet. Although Sayad's cuisine is based on Pacific Rim
techniques and flavors with subtle influences from Europe, it is a flavorful
journey across many culinary frontiers. For several years now 'Pacific Rim'
cookery has been the buzzword for a lot of seafood restaurants looking to
garner a greater share of the market. Under the culinary leadership of newly
appointed Chef de Cuisine Bryan Chan, Sayad has catapulted itself into the
forefront realizing that great food doesn't depend on a trend even though it
may ride that wave. He has created a modern expression of balance without
playing it safe. |
|
| Restaurant Manager
Belinda greets us warmly with a firm handshake and as if long lost mariners at
the end of an epic journey, we are shown to our table all the while gazing into
every corner of the room, discovering peace and tranquility as we go. The
subdued aqueous colors that abound convey the feeling of snorkeling through the
restaurant while at the same time acts to power up our palate in quiet
anticipation for dining on seafood. |
|
|
|
|
| Rose scented cool cloth towels were presented as a way
to freshen up before dining. Belinda began by serving us a Bellini, an aperitif
that originated in another water world of Venice, Italy. Refreshing fresh white
peach puree combined with Prosecco sparkling dry wine offered the right touch
to share our special moment. Bread was brought out to the table along with a
trio of spreads including sweet & spicy red pepper, delicate tuna and sweet
cream butter. Four types of house made breads were made available including
baguettes, soft rolls, brioche and large formations of Arabic flat bread.
|
|
 |
|
Chef Chan now turned to
his international bag of tricks to break from tradition by sending out an Amuse
Bouche of White Caviar over Sour Cream Stuffed Mini Potato. Instead of
the usual mass of glittering charcoal-gray beads, ivory-colored caviar, the
rarest and most expensive, decorated the dollop of sour cream. The flavor does
not have the almost floral delicacy of most beluga but is more assertive and
intriguingly smoky. |
|
|
| We relished the momentary pleasure with gusto
especially when we found out that it can cost upwards of $1,200 for four
ounces, about 125 grams. Next up was a very mischievous Lobster Nacho with
Boursin Cheese, Guacamole and Roasted Tomato Salsa, which by architecture
alone was majestic and by taste, an international expression of flavor. Chef
Chan is certainly on the path to maintaining his edge in this business and can
rightly be credited with a good amount of inspired innovation. |
|
 |
|
| Belinda approached now with a bottle of 2005 Robert
Weil Riesling, Rheingau Germany to share with us the undisputed king of
Rheingau heavyweights. This over the top impressive wine was incredibly rich
and ripe and is highly sought after worldwide. It was delightful and elegant
while working itself in a cohesive way as a pair for the opulent lobster nacho,
which by the way was topped with my favorite tobiko (flying fish eggs). Our
devoted and well-trained servers whisked away the remnants of that course and
brought on a Peking Duck Essence with Calamari Ravioli and Chinese
Wolfberries, a type of duck broth loaded with flavor and nutrition. It
seems that the powerful wolfberries are believed to contribute to longevity by
slowing the damage caused by free radicals. “What did you say?” asked
Thorsten as he witnessed me slurping down every last drop. “Oh,
nothing”, I mused and continued gnawing on wolfberries and the delicious
calamari ravioli. I felt like I could go to till at least 100 years old after
that course! Oh well, in my dreams! |
|
| To look beyond the
expected you must be able to think like you are creating something truly
unique. Chef Chan now sent out the salad course of Oriental Caesar Salad
with Shrimp Canapes and Smoked Chili Jam, an idiosyncratic brainchild.
Romaine lettuce in large chunks, lightly covered with the most delicious Caesar
dressing and served with two skewered shrimps just bursting with natural
juices. |
|
 |
|
|
All too often shrimp can be overcooked very easily
making them dry and chewy, but these it seems were processed in a very hot clay
oven so that the natural juices remained inside until you bit into them.
Together with a 2005 Sandalford Sauvignon Blanc/Semillion, Margaret River
Australia, it came within inches of perfection. This wine offered a level
of intensity and varietal definition only seen in great years. Citrus nuances
in a medium bodied wine with beautiful balance, acidity and a zesty finish.
We took a pause in between courses with thinly sliced and delicate flavored
Nashi Pear Sorbet to cleanse the palate before moving on to the main
course. Monkfish Confit with Crispy Chicken Skin, Beef Chorizo, Capers, Root
Vegetables and Tom Yum Emulsion was the Pièce de Résistance,
the best feature of the evening. Chef Chan pulled out all the stops with his
terrific cleverness and skill by 'thinking outside of the box”. What the
mysterious 'Tom Yum Emulsion” was I never found out. All I know is that it
worked well in a support role for the lobster-like monkfish meat. |
|
|
|
|
A very traditional 100%
Sauvignon Blanc Poully Fumé Pascal Jolivet, 2005 from the glacial
soils of the Loire region of France, was produced as quickly as we said
“What's next?” Its pale straw color and clean nose called to mind a
very youthful but vibrant wine. It is fresh and direct with ripe fruit flavors
and a clean biting finish. |
|
|
Finally our evening dining experience came to an end
with the service of Pandan Leaf Crème Brulee and Caramel Custard Tofu
Ice Cream. Is there any end to this madness? Chef Chan is continuing to
raise the bar of excellence in his pursuit of perfection and creativity.
Needless to say, a very special wine of extraordinary character was necessary
at this point and proud Belinda brought us a breathtaking, marvelous
Château d'Yquem Sur Saluces, 1998. It is a remarkably obvious,
open and expressive wine showing plenty of character with an appreciable depth
of botrytis. That is the ingredient that produces the great finesse and
structure as well as allowing for eons of cellar time rather than mere years.
We were honored and fortunate to have had an opportunity to taste this
monumental wine.
Chef Chan is a skillful and brilliant virtuoso, who
masterfully compiles his thoughts into measurable endeavors for the pleasure of
his grateful guests. Emirates Palace is thankful to have his expertise at their
disposal as he represents the same professional 7* dream of striving for
perfection. |
|
 |
|
| 2007
Sayad - Seven Stars and Stripes - Award-Hand-Out |
|
|
|
|
|
by John Lomitola, Simone & Thorsten Buehrmann
Editor:
John Lomitola
Editor-in-Chief: Ingrid Lemme |
|
| © 2007 ~ Seven Stars and Stripes,
Inc. |
|
|
|
Back to Top
|
|
|
 |
|
