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| American Dream Cuisine™ |
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| Restaurant: L'Europe |
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| St.
Petersburg - Russia |
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Society - World
Level Perfection
June - 2006 |
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6 Stars
& 7 Stripes
Cuisine & Service |
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The Ultimate
Award:
Seven Stars and Stripes® |
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| It's amazing to think that Restaurant L'Europe has
evolved in so many positive ways since the last time our team of culinary
experts paid a visit in 2005. We returned recently to find that this elegant
restaurant, which is established in a category all its own, has taken on the
brilliant talents of the youthful French chef Yoann Bernard under the mentoring
of his good friend and colleague Dominique Ferchaud. L'Europe has emerged in
the focal point of culinary sophistication with its inspired Russian and
Continental fare calling to mind the glorious and heady days of
pre-revolutionary Russia. Recipes are carefully developed to reflect the bygone
days when royalty reigned supreme, combined with a thorough sprinkling of
modern French cooking techniques and plate presentations. |
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| The fabulous Art Nouveau
interior is ever present and adds to the tremendous ambiance with hand crafted
stained-glass windows and carefully chosen antique furnishings. Comfort is
complete as the physical layout of cathedral ceilings surrounded by pleasing
earth tones of lavender, cream and gold works well to soften the tone and make
it conducive for unrivalled fine dining. |
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Chef Bernard's performance during our visit was
impeccable as he focused on some of his personal favorites that he brought with
him from his birthplace in Brittany. First up was Cucumber and Baby Shrimp
floured with Tarragon and served with Cold Borsch Mousse, which proved to
be an interesting blend of French and Russian cultural finesse. A well-chilled
bottle of Louis Roederer Brut, NV added character to the appetizer with
its extremely fine bubbles and long but subtle white fruit finish. A quick
glance up while sipping the straw gold liquid drew my eyes to the cool vaulted
interior framing the stained glass ceiling hanging over us as if suspended from
the sky. Our server Pavel working with headwaiter Vitaly quietly cleared for
the next course of Duck Liver "Nugat" served with Orange Tuile and Pear and
Green Apple. It was beyond a doubt the most refined rich flavor and creamy
smooth texture fittingly positioned next to a 'tuile' or thin, crisp cookie
made from crushed almonds and orange zest. A deep energetic amber colored
2003 Sauternes A.O.C. provided the warmth needed to pair with creamy
delicate opulent 'nugat' of duck liver.
Brittany Turbot served with
Lemon-Tomato Confit, Green Asparagus and shaved Chorizo in Basil Emulsion
was the next choice emanating from Chef Bernard's well-organized efficient
kitchen. Food and Beverage Director Daniel Burkhard hovered over our
table bringing with him a very fine bottle of 2003 Chablis Premier Cru Les
Vaillons, Domaine Pinson as his professional suggestion to match with this
course. A light fruit nose of lemon oil and spicy oak proved to be easygoing
with a creamy texture resembling woven silk cloth. There was a sudden bustle of
activity as the servers prepared the table for an intermezzo of Passionfruit
Granite with a shot of Grenadine syrup, a delightfully refreshing, pleasing
concoction designed to 'shock' the palate thereby getting it ready for the main
event. Chef Yoann pulled out all the stops by resorting to the traditional
'Bretton' method of preparation for the delicate Veal Filet served with Baby
Carrots, Braised Lettuce, Mushroom 'Cigarette' and Balsamic Jus, reaching
all the way back to his roots in France for this recipe. Another fine pairing
was presented for this entrée in the form of a 2002 Crozes-Hermitage
La Rollande, Charles Brotte from the Rhône valley. This simple but
elegant wine is made entirely of syrah grapes thereby imparting a delicate nose
of flowering violets with a spicy pepper finish. As we finished our
entrées and prepared ourselves for the sweet pleasures of dessert and
cordials, we mused at the possibility that Chef Yoann Bernard has in fact
stepped up to meet the challenge of continued success and prosperity at his
outpost in St. Petersburg. We couldn't think of a finer venue for him to prove
his mettle and establish himself among the great chefs of Europe. |
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“L'Europe has emerged in the focal point of culinary
sophistication with its inspired Russian and
Continental fare calling to
mind the glorious and heady days of pre-revolutionary Russia” ~ TB
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Lime Crème Brulee served with Fresh Pinapple
Salsa and Coconut Sorbet/Emulsion came to be presented to us along with two
short glasses of Taylor's 20 yr. old Tawny Port and double espresso. It
is becoming progressively more accepted that Grand Hotel Europe has moved into
position as one of the greatest locations in the world for gourmet chocolate
creations. It is the brainchild of Executive Chef Dominique Ferchaud using his
incredible creativity to begin offering GHE's own line of flawlessly exquisite
house made chocolate handiwork. It seems that along with his secrete blend of
several premium cocoas and flavorings, he has designed an irresistible delicacy
strong enough to woo the most discerning chocolate lover into his embrace.
As if we all didn't want the night to end after this 'celebration meal' we
all decided to stop for a nightcap at the Lobby Bar. Cognac was the final
selection to accompany the addictive chocolates while afterward a late night
star-gaze over the city of St Petersburg could produce just the right bedtime
medicine for a restful sleep. |
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by
Thorsten Buehrmann & Arno Goudschaal
Editor: Ingrid
Lemme,
Editor-in-Chief: John Lomitola |
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| © 2006 ~ Seven Stars and Stripes, Inc. |
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