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| Abu
Dhabi, U.A.E |
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Extraordinary -
Society
October - 2007 |
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5
Stars & 6 Stripes
Cuisine & Service |
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The Ultimate Award:
Seven Stars and Stripes® |
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| An authentic gastronomic tour through the provinces of
Italy, while in the Middle East seemed like an unlikely scenario for us as we
headed for the Emirates Palace flagship restaurant Mezzaluna. “An aperitif
would be lovely outside under the stars” I overheard Simone whisper to her
husband Thorsten. Right away we were greeted pleasantly by Assistant Restaurant
Manager Tarek bin Hassen, beckoning us to the patio outside the restaurant
overlooking the Persian Gulf. It was there that Tarek worked his magic opening
a bottle of Prosecco VSOP for us as we gazed upward into the sparkling
skies. Thorsten opted for the Joseph Perrier Cuvee Royale, an amber gold
champagne that proved to be an exceptional vintage. This blend of 15 grand crus
and three grape varieties offered a moment of intense pleasure when allowed to
linger over the taste buds. This was to be the start of a great dining
experience. |
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| We tore ourselves away
from the penetrating vision in the heavens before us and took our places within
the confines of the comfortable and well-designed restaurant. We immediately
received an assortment of warm house-made breads, including crispy bread
sticks, several types of baguettes, soft rolls and whole grain. Bona fide extra
virgin Italian olive oils were offered along with shaved bits of
Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese and thick and sweet aged Balsamico di Modena
vinegar. We had previously had the pleasure of dining under the gifted creative
artistry of Executive Sous Chef Luigi Antonio Piu and his talented team,
overseen by Executive Chef Wolfgang Fischer. |
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| In person, Chef Luigi is friendly and animated,
frequently making trips out of the kitchen to check on his guests and add the
necessary ingredient of 'laughter' to the mix. This creates the typical
homespun Italian atmosphere that causes one to forget that you are in Abu Dhabi
and believe you are in Florence or Venice. Behind the scenes, Chef Luigi is a
serious player with an abundance of creativity and knowledge. He spends much of
his time trying to create something truly unique, by looking beyond the
expected. By the looks of things, he has succeeded in his quest to push himself
and his team to the edge of culinary achievement and beyond. |
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While dining in
Mezzaluna, we were always under the watchful eye of Assistant Manager Tarek as
he made his way to our table opening wines and serving our courses. Although
Pana and Pellegrino waters were the mainstay of this cultural feast, a very
special local water called Al Ain or “the spring” in Arabic was
served throughout our stay at Emirates Palace. It offered a crisp, clean local
alternative from the deep aquifers of the Western Desert near Oman. |
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| Chef Luigi now sent us a 'Greetings from the Kitchen'
of heirloom tomatoes and buffalo mozzarella, ricotta cheese with wafer thin
prosciutto (set in an edible funnel shape), delicate smoked salmon and Foie
Gras, in an arrangement he named Stuzzicatino Misto or 'One Bite
Antipasto'. Appropriately named, each genuine taste had a built-in authentic
flavor succinctly concentrated in bite-sized form. |
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| Shortly thereafter,
Assistant Manager Tarek brought out Piccola Aragosta Calda or Lobster
with champagne froth, Beluga caviar and black truffle. This outstanding
sculpture held flavor as an expression of art in that it looked too attractive
to eat but tasted just as good as it looked. We were served a Vernaccia di
San Gimignano, 2005 Piccini, Italy that dutifully complimented the lobster
with a rich, heady bouquet and clean taste that lingered long on the palate. It
warmed and inspired us as we enjoyed Chef Luigi's creation. |
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| Soon came Tortelloni Ripieni con Ricotta e
Spinaci or spinach and ricotta tortelloni with foie gras, porcini and quail
egg. This was a magnificent food statuette layered like a Napoleon pastry with
rich delicate goose liver, earthy porcini and a mini sunny side up quail egg
with a generous slice of black truffle capping it on the top. This was followed
by Vitello e Sella d'Agnello con due Risotti, a splendid combination of
roasted veal and rack of lamb with lemon and apple infusion and saffron
risotto. |
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Actually the infusion
of citrus had the effect of emphasizing the delicate flavor of the veal while
cutting through some of the unmistakable essence of lamb. A fine Sicilian red
wine, La Segreta 2003 performed well with its inky dark ruby color,
plummy, pruney scents and spicy, aromatic overtones of new oak. Its ripe and
juicy black-fruit flavor is shaped by plenty of fresh-fruit acidity for
balance. |
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| Finally a Mezzaluna dessert sampling of Piccolo
Dolce Misto, combining miniature portions of tiramisu, chocolate mud pie,
panna cotta with 24 carat gold leaf and typical Italian cannoli. The whole
assortment was balanced by the addition of a slice of fresh fig and a cluster
of fresh red currents. Since pleasure loves company, Assistant Manager Tarek
suggested double espressos and Formentini Grappa di Chardonnay for me
and a large snifter of Gran Marnier Cuvee du Cent Cinquantenaire,
150-year-old Gran Marnier Cognac for Thorsten and Simone. |
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| This was truly a
perfect ending as we realized that the passion that lives in Chef Luigi Piu
comes to life in his creative kitchen. We left Mezzaluna releshing the
lingering sensation of just having dined with a fresh fun spin on traditional
cuisine. |
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| It was as if Chef Luigi was in the process of
re-mastering the art of Italian cooking and presentation deep within the
gastronomic center of Abu Dhabi. Our experience was one of gracious service and
spirited charm leading us to believe that the only ingredient that doesn't go
out of style here is hospitality and passionate brave new cooking. |
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| 2007
Mezzaluna - Seven Stars and Stripes - Award-Hand-Out |
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by John Lomitola, Simone & Thorsten Buehrmann
Editor:
John Lomitola
Editor-in-Chief: Ingrid Lemme |
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| © 2007 ~ Seven Stars and Stripes,
Inc. |
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