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Kempinski Emirates Palace
Emirates Palace - Logo
Abu Dhabi, United Arab Emirates
7 Stars and 6 Stripes
World Level Perfection - Society
October 1st - 2006
7 Stars & 6 Stripes
Hotel & Service
Seven Stars and Stripes - Logo
The Ultimate Award:
Seven Stars and Stripes®
Once upon a time there was an enchanting palace, a wonder to behold for all who ventured through its magnificent gates - and as one of our Seven Stars And Stripes® reviewer teams, we were well on the way to discovering it for the first time. We landed at Abu Dhabi International Airport after a most relaxing and luxurious flight with Etihad Airways, the official national airline of the United Arab Emirates. The landing had been a flawlessly executed experience and our suitcases were at our disposal within minutes.
Passport control and customs were most professional and treated us with the greatest of respect. As the gates of the arrival hall swung open, a well-dressed gentleman of eloquent demeanor, established eye contact within a spilt second and welcomed us by our last name. He turned out to be our butler and he guided us with great ease through the crowd to two white Maybach stretch limos that were waiting for us at the main entrance. Flying in from Northern Europe, this radiant blue sky and already hot temperatures at 7 am, got us all excited in the hope for a great sunny day. The country is kissed by the sun with more than 360 days of blue sky, Abu Dhabi is a paradise just waiting to be discovered by the western world. My photographer Arno Goudschaal and I decided to travel in one limo together. The drivers were dressed in white uniforms while my butler Subhojit was dressed in pale gold. Thorsten Buehrmann - Pearl Zone - Etihad Airways
Before we got on the way, Subhojit opened my car door and offered me an iced towel on a silver tray so that I was able to refresh myself, then he closed my door carefully walked round the limo from behind and opened my photographer's door where he repeated the most appreciated gesture. We arrived in Abu Dhabi during the time of Ramadan, where the practicing person will not consume food or drink from sunrise to sundown. During Ramadan the non-practicing guests from anywhere in the world are asked to respect this time of fasting until arrival at the Emirates Palace.
Outside World
Subhojit apologized profusely for not being able to offer us a drink during the drive to the Emirates Palace, which was really not a problem since the hotel was close by. The world outside seemed incredibly distant as Abu Dhabi, once a desert has been rather recently transformed into a city of skyscrapers with lots of green. Over 120 million trees have been planted in the parks of Abu Dhabi. The cosmopolitan city features malls, boulevards and promenades and is recognized worldwide today for great shopping, featuring every luxury designer brand possible and offers bargains for gold and jewelry.
Arrival at the Emirates Palace
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After all it was the fastest twenty minutes I’ve ever spend in a Limo and the only sorrow I had was that we couldn’t use the two lovely Robbe & Berking 925 Sterling Silver champagne flutes. These just over half a million dollar custom designed Maybachs were of amazing luxury and great style, equipped with two TV sets and decorated with fleshly-cut red roses. Fairytales came to life when the Emirates Palace came into sight. I cannot describe my first impression other then surreal, a combination of Utopia & Thousand and One Night.
Kempinski Emirates Palace - Day View
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This three billion dollar resort-hotel has the reputation to be the most expensive hotel ever built to date, considering that it features close to four hundred accommodations. It will take your breath away, as it did take ours. We were welcomed with an almost overwhelming affection and were accompanied to a dedicated elevator that brought us directly to our Palace suites on the seventh floor.
Emirates Palace - Arrival
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My butler was already expecting us in our main dining room and after the entire entourage was settled a sparkling cider was served. The 'Bateel' juice (which means 'young palm shoot') is produced by the prominent Sudeiry family, using dates from their private farms in Al Ghat, a central area with an ideal climate and soil for growing dates. Dates and their juices are truly one of natures most delicious and nutritious power foods and drinks. As we looked around our accommodations, we realized that combined they were over seven thousand three hundred square foot (almost seven hundred square meters).
Our palace suite was the combination of three private apartments and was basically a smaller palace within the larger one. Each had its own spacious living areas and a master bedroom with one elegant dining ‘room’ (serving up to ten), a main sitting room, each of which could be entered through one main entrance hall. The bedrooms were decorated in gentle tones of pale gold, silver leaf and rich marble, featuring spacious baths, including couples Jacuzzis and rain forest showers.
Now I was given time alone to freshen up while my butler Subhojit unpacked my Rimowa suitcases expertly. I took a 'refreshing' shower (never got the water to more than barely warm, unfortunately) with marvelous spa amenities by Hermès, a timeless and appreciated fragrance available all over the world. After I slipped into my oversized embroidered soft, chic, white bathrobe I walked into the living room and opened the doors out onto the balcony. The resort is located on a natural desert peninsula displaying one of the finest white sandy beaches the world has to offer and is surrounded by pristine, azure waters, which I bet are bursting with an abundance of marine life.
“We felt as we were living in a fairy tale.” ~ TB
Emirates Palace - Palace Suite - Bathroom
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Finally, I was scheduled for a grand tour of the hotel and must thank the women and especially Nadine for the most informative tour. First of all a little bit of history. This fairytale peninsula was a dessert until four decades ago. The Emirates Palace, which is owned by the Government of Abu Dhabi, was designed by WATG (Wimberly Allison Tong & Goo) and opened its magnificent gates in early 2005 after a three-year building phase. This international project employed a work force of approximately twelve thousand people, representing forty-three nations.
Blue Saloon - Emirates Palace
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WATG is one of the leading hospitality design firms world-wide. The group has created a few of the world's most famous resort hotels including Atlantic - the Leela Palace Kempinski, Bangalore - The Venetian Resort Hotel & Casino, Las Vegas - and the Mansion at MGM Grand in Las Vegas; just to name a few. Kempinski with infinite experiences in managing legendary properties (see Adlon in Berlin, Germany and the Baltschug in Moscow, Russia; just to name a few) operates the Emirates Palace. The design of this empire incorporates traditional Arabian elements such as the 60-meter tall Grand Dome and 114 smaller domes over the entire palace, held in the natural colors that are found in the Arabian Desert.
Emirates Palace - Atrium
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I was told that the Emirates Palace employs circa two thousand staff members, representing fifty different nationalities, reflected also in the taste of the international cuisine offered in the restaurants with one hundred and fifty chefs on premises. We found out that thirteen different kinds of marble imported from China, Italy, India and Spain are constructed within these illustrious halls - lit by a thousand and two sparkling Swarovski chandeliers. We took another elevator (there are a total of one hundred and forty elevators available throughout the entire building) to the Blue Room. An understatement, indeed. The painting of the seven horses represents the seven United Arabic Emirates, I was told. The UAE or 'Emirates' are: Abu Dhabi, Ajman, Dubai, Fujairah, Ras al-Khaimah, Sharjah, and Umm al-Quwain. We passed by seventeen exclusive shops (found at all different locations) like Rolex, Damas, Rodeo Drive, Paris Gallery; just to mention a few.
The Emirates Palace features quite a large and most advanced conference facilities, besides it is perfectly positioned on a global scale. Their state-of-the-art auditorium accommodates twelve hundred people and allows conventions for a thousand people with technical capabilities of translating simultaneously into eight different languages. It became evident that the Emirates Palace offers the most magnificent, technologically advanced and press-friendly conference and meeting facilities in the Middle East. The luxurious grand ballroom, which is divisible into three sections, has a total seating capacity for two thousand eight hundred people.
Please take a closer look
We were scheduled for a lunch meeting at the Le Vandome Brasserie with Hotel Manager Arild Sjoedin and Director of Food & Beverage Rod Leffler. Both well-dressed gentlemen approached us at once with great ease and solid handshakes. Arild Sjoedin is from Norway and Rod Leffler from Germany and both are fluent in English and German besides their native languages. We got to understand that the most common language throughout the resort is English though we overheard staff conversing in German as well as many other foreign languages with the guests.
A highly professional, charismatic person who leads well, but is also very interesting. Sjoedin is the kind of man who dives for oysters and appreciates Neptune's most succulent foods just the way I like it, with a little bit of the fresh seawater. Besides Sjoedin, who is married with children, is part of the private '8th Club', which was founded by a group of eight men during college years. Today they are a group of highly educated gentlemen, who live and work all over the world, but come together once a year to share their experience and help each other with what ever one might need. The lunch cuisine was exceptional and to sum it up - chef de cuisine Steffen Gube, who we meet briefly, is fabulous. Gube came from the highly recognized Kempinski Adlon in Berlin, Germany and I am looking forward to a more extensive review of his highly creative, delicious work.
“The service staff was clearly aiming to please,
each guest treating as royalty.” ~ TB
Le Vandome
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Before we took the plunge into the amazing 'West Wing Pool' we changed quickly into our swimming trunks at the spa, which my butler had miraculously foreseen we would need. I ran to the picture prefect beach and jumped into its bathtub warm, crystal clear, turquoise blue waters. Most delightful and definitely a safe beach for scuba diving and swimming! The fine white, neatly combed sand of the lagoon reminded me on the beaches of Aruba. The precious natural saltwater lagoon, which is partially enclosed, has an awesome sandy bottom.
West-Wing-Pools
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As I emerged from the pleasantly carrying, salty waters of the Arabian Gulf, my butler quickly handed me fluffy body towels and then another cool, refreshing face towel on a silver tray. We walked over to the pools. While pools as entertainment have long been standard practice at world resorts, the term ‘pool’ seems no longer adequate here since this is rather to be considered a fabulous water garden facility, featuring an enormous variety of formal and fun water activates, including a jet propelled lazy river for entertainment. How can one possibly resist a water slide? I remembered the days I would spend with my family in water parks and all the fun we had! So Arno and I went on the big water slides, and yes, it was exciting. The water was really clear and everywhere perfectly temperatured. Moreover, lifeguards were ever present ;)!
During the time or Ramadan, the non-practicing guest will be easily accommodated at the pool with drinks and snacks under AC'd tents. We had a freshly pressed fruit juice at the tent with Recreation Manager Devon Graham, a gentleman from Australia. Orange, Mango & Pineapple has always been one of my favorites; this one was over the top delicious, besides healthy! I would consider the West Wing Pool gardens as the more active, fun facilities while the East Wing Pools are more serene, as we should later on discover. Within the blink-of-an-eye the sun was down and our stomachs reminded us that it would pretty soon be time for dinner.
Emirates Palace - Atrium
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My butler, who I am convinced can read my mind, appeared out of the blue with a big smile and a perfectly chilled bottle of Dom Pérignon '95 in a silver cooler next to our luxurious lounge chairs for an inspiring start for the upcoming Dégustations Menu that was planned for 8 pm at the Sayad Restaurant. Head Butler Subhojit Banerjee is a member of the 'Guild of Professional English Butlers' and 'International Guild of Butlers'.
Sayad Restaurant
Abu Dhabi, U.A.E
5 Stars and 5 Stripes
Extraordinary
October 1st - 2006
5 Stars & 5 Stripes
Cuisine & Service
The Ultimate Award:
Seven Stars and Stripes®
As I approach the Sayad Restaurant for my pre-arranged dinner reservation, I begin to notice a serene change filter through me in the form of a sort of "rapture of the deep". My feet follow a turquoise path conjuring up a curious feeling of strength with a dose of remarkable anticipation. The figures on the rug give me the first hint of fluid motion as images of dolphins moving through cerulean waves capture my imagination. The mood is further set as indirect lighting sheds curtains of abyss-blue color, deepening my earlier sensations of amusement and mystique. I remind myself that I am still at sea level; or am I? I prepare for the unexpected as I unconsciously take a deep breath and enter this aqueous zone.
"It's all about water" I remark to Arno our photographer, as we descend into a Persian Gulf version of Neptune's world. We stroll past large aquariums filled with animated characters seemingly out of some kind of Disneyesque feature film. Another tank is filled with live crustaceans just waiting to be arranged in some artistic fashion on the dinner plates of this evening's bill of fare. "Even the flowers are floating in water" remarked Arno after noticing the unique floral arrangements strategically accentuating the Spartan furniture. All along I'm wondering if we'll somehow meet the mermaid that runs this operation.
"Good evening" came a soothing female voice from somewhere above the waves. "My name is Belinda and I would like to show you to your table" she continues. We fall into line behind Belinda as she takes us past an interesting display of some very distinctive bottles of wine made to look like they are floating underwater. Next, we pass a mound of ice topped with several tins of Iranian Caviar producing a certain eagerness to reach our table and a chance for us to sample this bounty from the Black Sea.
Sayad Restaurant
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As we reach our table I get the strong urge to 'come up for air' after our spin through Sayad Restaurant. Belinda hands us our menus and points out the panorama directly out the nearby window. I immediately begin to understand how the views of the gorgeous Gulf coastline and the beach can induce a longing for the freshest caught seafood professionally prepared by Sayad's culinary team. We are informed that Chef de Cuisine Shane O'Nell has instructed his team to 'make every effort to impress'. Our confidence is that Chef O'Nell's stated philosophy of ". . . bringing my passion on food from Europe to Abu Dhabi treating all diners to a magical experience . . . " will come to fruition.
To start with, we are presented with a 'Greetings from the Kitchen' of Iranian Caviar along with all the accoutrements that go with it in as sort of mini-buffet of delicacies. We can only use a 'mother of pearl' spoon with which to scoop up the fine grey colored roe. It is essential to use a non-metallic spoon when serving caviar, as it will prevent the roe from acquiring a metallic taste. We notice the sublime nutty taste with which to enjoy a fluted glass of Dom Perignon Vintage 1998, a seductive wine laced with elegance and grace. It appears pale yellow in the tall glass with a floral bouquet leaving trails of soft spice and nutty nuances thereby making it the perfect caviar wine. We relish our welcoming course and continue to sip the golden mousse while noticing servers with white gloves pulling chairs and catering to many business-type guests from all over the world.
Sayad Cuisine Our next course arrives it is Timbale of Citrus flavored Salmon Tatar, Beluga Caviar with Saffron Dressing. The delicate flavor and texture of the salmon seems to be supported by the addition of citrus contrasting with the slightly salty black caviar in a gorgeous assemblage of colors and textures. We now have a chat with Sommelier Ajwad Ponismail about the difficulty that the local import regulations impose on the ability to accumulate an extensive wine assortment.
Right now, it appears that the Emirates Palace is in a mode of carefully building up the wine inventory little by little into a formidable collection. Meanwhile we were expecting the next course of Risotto of Maine Lobster and Scottish Langoustines with Soft Herbs to be paired with an Australian Andraos Bros Olde Winilba Semillon-Sauvignon Blanc. It was clear from the start that this was an exceptional partnership in that the wine offered two delightfully well-suited varietals that complimented each other and offered tropical fruit and citrus to support the shellfish duo.
Our server Anil returned to clear the 'Robert Welch' silverware to prepare us for the main course of Sautéed Sea Scallops with Bloody Mary Sorbet for me and New Zealand Red Snapper with Prawn Gnocchi, finished with Fennel Barigoule for Arno. Overall, both presentations proved to be visually original in design and color presentation. The scallops developed a delicious caramelized surface from being pan-seared quickly thus browning the large meaty ovals. Sayad Cuisine
“Overall, both presentations proved to be visually original in design and color presentation.” ~ TB
The supporting rendition of a Bloody Mary had all the trappings of the spicy mixture used in the famous cocktail but was presented as a shaved ice sorbet forcing me to reflect on whether or not I had ever experienced it before. I had not! All that was missing was the vodka. Our take on the New Zealand red snapper forced us to reconsider the meaning of seafood presentation. Chef O'Nell's method of pan-searing the filet skin down first before baking to finish it off, provided for a crispy skin followed by the soft juicy inner core of the delicate white flesh. All the while, the entire dish was presented with all the vegetables surrounding the filet with mini-carrot tops in a sort of 'Stonehenge-like' arrangement. A bottle of Laroche Chardonnay 2005 that comes from a family that has been making wines in Burgundy since the 1850's was the obvious choice. This Chablis style wine produced a golden luminescence when held up to the light, which fades to crystalline silver but displays good concentration. It has a nose of white flowers, apples and dried fruits with a fresh vivacity that lingers after aeration. The honey-like texture works to hold the same fruit nuances on the palate so that it compliments the seafood extremely well.
By this time, we have seen the type of work that Chef de Cuisine Shane O'Nell and his talented team can do and we are impressed. It is now the occasion for Executive Chef de Patisserie Pascal Clair to give us a sense of what he is all about. He offers us his notable rendition of Jivara Chocolate Parfait with Berry Crumbles and Ginger Ice Cream with a wine pairing of Robert Weil Kiedrich Graffenberg Auslese from the Rheingau, Germany.
Sayad Cuisine It is a stroke of brilliance that Pastry Chef Pascal Clair uses the unique Jivara chocolate for his masterpiece. Unlike most milk chocolate, it will linger on your palate longer as it melts, and you notice hints of caramel and vanilla laced with a touch of malt. This chocolate is made with a special estate blend of cocoa beans from South America and the results is a distinctive flavor rich in cocoa but not overly sweet.
Chef Clair uses the chocolate to sculpt his creation into three diverse sections each with its own personality and flavor profile. The auslese from Robert Weil offered clean, very ripe botrytis defining it as balanced with a concentration of sweetness as if it were on the verge of becoming a spätlese.
We decide to retire now into a cappuccino "Emirates Palace" style with real 14-carat gold flakes sprinkled on top instead of the traditional cinnamon. I felt like I should try to skim off the flakes and take them home with me but calmer heads prevailed. At that very moment, as if as an encore there is a flurry of activity and out of the kitchen comes our server with another of Chef Clair's carefully constructed art pieces. This one is referred to as the White Chocolate Wave with Petit Fors and Apple Gelee that looks almost too good to eat. We enjoyed immensely all that was presented to us tonight at the Sayad Restaurant and decided to take a stroll into the neighboring Cigar Bar for an aromatic Cuban and a Remy Martin XO. What a way to end an evening! "Leila Sa'eeda" Good night in Arabic!
Sayad Restaurant - Seven Stars and Stripes - Award-Hand-Out
A dinner of the kind we’d just experienced demands a good old cognac and a cigar afterwards. We choose the Havana Club reminding us on traditional gentlemen clubs from by-gone eras; darker colors, cozy woods and soft leathers. The Havana Club boasts a selection of the world's finest spirits and most certainly cognacs and cigars. These were very well chosen selections with the discerning connoisseurs in mind.
Thorsten Buehrmann & Rodderich-Marc Leffler & Arild Sjoedin
Thorsten Buehrmann & Rodderich-Marc Leffler & Arild Sjoedin
I don’t smoke, but having traveled on Cuba extensively myself, I know all about hand-rolled Cuban cigars, and the Havana Club offers the finest selections to be had. Believe me when I say that we were all up for Cognacs but ended up with Mojitos, the kind where you saliva for more. Sascha, the bar manger from Germany was a master of his trade. I ignored the pretty chocolate box on my nightstand later that night completely.
When my phone rang the next morning with perfect timing for my wake up call, I was already conversing with my office in New York over my laptop. There is an eight-hour time difference between NYC and UAE. My secretary got all excited over the fact that her idol Jennifer Lopez had stayed at the Emirates Palace already. I felt truly refreshed after I'd experience a perfect eight hour sleep and the only regret I had was that my wife was not able to accompany me on this trip. The entire resort is on WIFI throughout and probably the most high-tech resort hotel I have ever experienced, but no ‘Skype’. The explanation is simple; a monopoly of the phone company! However, the Emirates Palace might be equipped with the most advanced high-tech conference facilities world wide.
Bed - Palace Suite
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Morning came, and I must say that there is nothing more self-indulgent than a breakfast served in your own formal dining room. There was no debate on eating breakfast in bed, and soon you will understand why. The dining room table was set formally with the finest bone china I have so far been served on in a hotel setting. The fine china by Bernardaud of France was 24-carat gold leaf, paper thin and beautiful. The overwhelming presentation could hardly be considered as romantic and was prepared to be tried one plate at a time. My palate was spinning. It was the time of the day when cuisine directors get a chance to set the tone for their guest for the rest of their day. There are talented international chefs and bakers preparing exclusive breakfast cuisine from various parts of the world. Their diverse culinary expertise and specialty dishes will definitely please the most discerning breakfast lovers.
Breakfast - Palace Suite
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A magic selection of freshly baked rolls, breads and Danishes included several aromatic and delicious Arabic versions. On the `Milk Menu´ were all sorts of dairy and non-dairy items offered for coffees, teas and cereals (heated to your specific liking); including camel milk!
The stream of international breakfast items was ever flowing, including authentic Arabian dishes of well-balanced mellow and subtle tastes gently complimented with exotic seasonings and herbs. Any palate will feel most satisfied.
I must praise Palace Operations Manager Dhansukh Ramji Matgaonkarthe and his well trained, ever present team of servers which presented this early morning feast as a stellar production.
We are delighted to have met with GM Noel Massoud who directs a team of highly trained professionals with great ease. It seems a well-balanced cultural union of world-class staff, indeed. Kempinski announced the appointment of this 'seasoned hotelier' in early 2005 - before that Noel Massoud managed the InterContinental Abu Dhabi for eight years. Massoud, of Jordanian nationality, has accumulated over thirty years of hospitality industry experiences in which he has worked for over eighteen years as GM for the respected InterContinental hotel group.
Thorsten Buehrmann & Noel Massoud
Thorsten Buehrmann & Noel Massoud
In addition to his native Arabic language, he is fluent in English, German and French. We conversed almost entirely in English and German. Massoud is married and has a great passion for diving. His goal is to ensure that the Emirates Palace lives up to its potential of bringing a new dimension to the hospitality industry in the UAE and the world. Massoud has committed himself to another milestone success of the Kempinski group, Europe's oldest luxury hotel group, and he is well on the way in creating a global awareness of Abu Dhabi as travel destination.
Please take a closer look
As we shook hands at the GM’s office door after an inspiring meeting - Subhojit appeared immediately, as if he knew, to guide us back to our accommodations. As we passed an elegant bar counter he said that this was actually the caviar bar. At that moment I mentioned that in my private bar in the suite was still sitting a perfectly chilled bottle of Dom Perginon 1995 and that's all I said. Now how this happened, I don't know and I probably will never find out - but - as Subhojit opened the door to our elegant sitting room, the DP ‘95 was expecting us in a perfectly chilled silver cooler, eagerly waiting to be popped – served with exquisitely chilled ‘Whole Duck Foie Gras’.
Helicopter VIP-TOUR
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“How can you possibly top that?”
I said to Arno as the champagne flutes clinked, enjoying the private moment and the taste of the delicacies. Then Subhojit asked us to follow him on an excursion. He mentioned briefly that he had prepared something special for us, that's all. At a main entrance, he opened the doors to a BMW 745 IL and we hopped in, not knowing what to expect and our adrenaline was up. Within minutes we arrived at one of the palace's private helicopter landing port and boarded a Eurocopter EC 130 with Captain Salem Al-Kayoumi already expecting us at the chopper. Our pilot, who turned out to be the Chairman of Falcon Aviation Services, took off rather gently - however our adrenaline was once again pumping strong.
The helicopter was designed for sightseeing trips with extra large windows that allow great views from every seat to take photos. We circled briefly over the enormous Emirates Palace and the magnificent skyline of Abu Dhabi, then the fascinating one-of-a-kind coastline. Within ten minutes flying time we saw a multitude of small romantic islands, surrounded by calm, turquoise waters; two hundred islands there are, Captain Salem explained. We landed on one of these small private islands assigned exclusively to Falcon Aviation to find a prefect little paradise prepared for us with wonderful refreshments. These two hundred islands will make a perfect getaway for travelers from all over the world.
“Abu Dhabi, Where Aruba meets the Maldives!” ~ TB
On the way back from the islands we discovered from the helicopter a rather large tent between the Emirates Palace and the peaceful bay. Inquiring, we were informed that during Ramadan when practicing people are fasting, a feast is then prepared for sundown at the tent, which we should experience first hand after our dinner.
East Wing Pool
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But for now we jumped into the still waters of the 'East Wing Pools' for a refreshing dip and a little R & R. We entered the Mezzaluna dining room refreshed, relaxed and hungry a couple of hours later.
Mezzaluna Restaurant
Mezzaluna - Restaurant Logo
Abu Dhabi, U.A.E
6 Stars and 5 Stripes
Society - Extraordinary
October 1st - 2006
6 Stars & 5 Stripes
Cuisine & Service
The Ultimate Award:
Seven Stars and Stripes®
"Each time you open a door around here it seems like you enter a new world" our photographer Arno said as we entered the Emirates Palace restaurant, Mezzaluna. After all, it was last night that we crossed the threshold of the underwater world of Sayed Restaurant for a very impressive display of culinary perfection featuring splendid seafood creations. Tonight we are told to prepare for gastronomic journey through the cuisine capitals of Tuscany, the Amalfi Coast, Sicily and Sardinia for a true Italian experience. A quick look up revealed a cavernous cathedral-like ceiling structure reminding us both of an ethereal Italian monastery. It is there at the entrance to Mezzaluna that we met Restaurant Manager Shambhu Acharya who welcomed us with a hearty "Buona Sera!" before offering us a quick detour through the restaurant while he shed some light on what to expect. As we stroll to our table, we pass a spotless open kitchen complete with a wood-fired brick oven and if it wasn't for the busy kitchen team moving smoothly around their domain, it could have been the ideal show-kitchen for a TV cooking series.
We arrive at our table and suddenly it all makes sense. There, in front of us was a view of the pristine beach and beyond that the Persian Gulf as if juxtaposed on the canvas of a great Italian master. We look at the walls around us filled with gondolas depicted floating under Venetian bridges and then out to the beach again in a surreal game of scene changing between two paradises. A very warm feeling of assurance overcame me as I was handed the menu and I decided to remain, at least for the time being, in a sort of Italian-style suspended animation.
Mezzaluna Restaurant
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We are told that the Executive Sous Chef of Mezzaluna, Luigi Antonio Piu had come to Emirates Palace via his humble origins from the village of Sassari, in Sardinia, Italy and brought with him all the earthy recipes from his life growing up with his parents. 'It doesn't get any better than that" I mused as the thought of a dine-around Italy featuring Chef Luigi's innovations seemed like the perfect way to go.
Mezzaluna Cuisine From the first, it was decided between Arno and I to sample as many of Chef Luigi's creations as possible so that we could get a sort of highlighted tour of Italy's centers of cuisine. In Italy we were told, every dinner begins with the basics: bread and oil. At so it was that a basket of warm crusty rustic bread was placed in front of us along with olive oil; but not just any olive oil. We were given the opportunity to choose from a selection of Italy's finest extra virgin first cold pressing olive oils with the emphasis placed on a myriad of olive varietals.
I think I whispered something like "I could live on bread and oil alone", to which our attentive server dutifully asked "More bread?" I guess I just can't keep a secrete. Sampling oils is much like sampling fine wines; there is a method and an art to it. Not all olive oils are created equal and one of the first things you learn is that different olive varietals produce different characteristic flavor profiles.
The finest olive oils for tasting and flavoring are the 'first cold-pressed extra virgin'; they are known for their floral bouquet aroma, and the slightly acidic and spicy notes on the palate. Arno and I had a ball sampling as many as we could all the while using the great assortment of Tuscan breads and rolls for dipping platforms. My special way of delivering the goods was to doll-up the oil with salt, cracked peppercorn and shaved Parmesano Reggiano cheese. Ahhhh! Italian heaven in Abu Dhabi. Mezzaluna Cuisine
Our server looked over at us and decided that it was time now to bring on the "Greetings from the Kitchen" before it was too late and there in front of us was placed Composition of Pan Fried Goose Liver topped with Pear, Timbale of Polenta with Dried Beef and White Asparagus in Cheese Fondue. It was a velvety smooth melt in your mouth rendition of foi gras that had been caramelized from the start in the pan thereby obtaining that wonderful crisp surface of glazed essence effectively enveloping a rich interior of deep earthy flavor. Northern Italians relish polenta as Americans enjoy their potatoes, with fervor.
Mezzaluna Cuisine The addition of dried beef to the polenta allows for a display of some of the specialty items produced in the region close to the Swiss border. I'm sure that this is why Chef Luigi also included white asparagus and cheese fondue in his composition to fully round out the presentation as a perfect example of this area nestled in the Dolomites. An appropriate wine paring had to be the Pinot Grigio Friuli Venezia Giulia 2005 offering fine flowery and fresh fruit scents in a balanced and gentle medium body that finishes with crisp and dry spice.
Antipasto was next on the agenda producing a course of Tuna Tartar with Infusion of Basil. What more can be said about tuna tartar except to remind you that you must start with the very freshest catch and you must only use ahi tuna (sashimi grade) to produce the desired results. Chef Luigi obviously has a great fishmonger for his seafood purchases as the tuna's only aroma was that of the ocean and Chef Luigi's cooking technique worked wonders to unleash its subtle taste profile. We moved now to an Italian icon, "La Pasta".
In this case, we were treated to a regional specialty of Northern Italy consisting of Ravioli stuffed with Spinach and Ricotta with Lobster Claws and Sea Scallops in light Sage Sauce. I couldn't help but reflect on the exotic herbal essence of sage complimenting the fresh spinach and ricotta stuffed ravioli. It worked remarkably well with the lobster and scallops and we were pleasantly surprised to be served a couple of glasses of Gavi di Gavi 2005, which is made from an ancient Piedmontese grape varietal known as Cortese. The wine is crisp, medium bodied with hints of apple and citrus. We noticed a long clean finish and surmised that it would make a good summertime white wine, which when you consider it is summertime all year in Abu Dhabi it is the perfect choice. Mezzaluna Cuisine
“...a dish that reflects the very essence of what Italian cookery is all about.” ~ TB
It was time for the main course to arrive and Chef Luigi went with a dish that reflects the very essence of what Italian cookery is all about. Sliced Roasted Veal on Porcini Risotto with Balsamic Reduction was offered to us and eagerly accepted despite the sated feeling derived from the abundance of Tuscan bread we had already consumed. This time a full-bodied Barolo Giacosa Fratelli 2001 was presented along with the veal entrée making for a spectacular companion with a nice nose of licorice and cherry. It is very dry and tannic with good structure and rich vanilla and spice flavors on a medium length finish. Both Arno and I were especially impressed with Chef Luigi's ability to take a delicate cut of meat like this veal loin and roast it to perfection as to optimize its ordinarily mild flavor into a rich three-dimensional affair.
Pascal Clair & Thorsten Buehrmann
Pascal Clair & Thorsten Buehrmann
As our servers were busy clearing the table for dessert, we noticed a serving cart being prepared for the next special event. With white gloves on, the captain approached the table to start the "Il Dolce" course of Sabayon Amaretto served with Vanilla Ice Cream and Fresh Fruits right in front of our eyes. The dessert wine chosen for the occasion was Vinsanto Chianti Classico 1995, a traditional wine of friendship and hospitality. The ancient method of making this wine has produced a dessert wine with a beautiful deep golden color with amber hues. The intense and fragrant bouquet leads to a full and lingering taste of almonds and raisins with a great finish. It was all we could do to push away from the table and get up now.
We felt reassured that all the desserts are created and prepared under the direction of Chef de Patisserie Pascal Clair, a man of incredible talent. We witnessed some of his original delicate crystalline sugar sculptures and of course his magnificent arrangements of Petit Fors. It seems that this gifted team of culinary artists assembled here at Emirates Palace could only have been accomplished under refined skilled leadership.
Mezzaluna - Seven Stars and Stripes - Award-Hand-Out
After dinner we would have normally finished the evening with cognacs at the cigar bar, but since it was Ramadan we were invited to attend ‘Iftaar’ - which means breaking of fasting during Ramadan, under the tent. Always brilliantly conceived, this event has become increasingly prestigious over the years amongst world travelers. There, in the largest tent of the UAE the most creative Arabian feast was showcased.
Iftaar Tent
Thorsten Buehrmann & Mohammad Farraj & Mathias Weigmann
This was my first experience of this kind and I consider it a superb event that one must not miss. It became evident that this was an enthusiastic participation for many affluent people from all over the world besides practicing locals. Everyone was well dressed, some traditional. All new arrivals were greeted with warm smiles by the hosts and hostesses and offered a special drink, rather unusual for the European taste.
Supposedly, it refuels the energy of the person who has feasted all day; I must say that I liked the taste. Matthias Weigmann, Assistant F&B Director was helpful explaining the flavors of every interesting dish to us. We felt as we were at the centre of the world, where all cultures meet. Traditional style as well as European dressed ladies and gentlemen were mingling while listening to a pleasant, live oriental band. As I smoked the water pipe, I had to think of 'I dream of Jeannie'. Time seemed to be of no importance.
“I foresee illustrious visitors from around the world attending these events to experience the sumptuous pleasures of Arabian nights!” ~ TB
Iftaar Tent
Please take a closer look
Sometime after midnight, the party was in full swing and expected to run well into the wee hours, we resigned from all duties and went back to our suites where Subhojit recommended drawing a bath for me. Without a doubt, this bath has been a unique experience as well as one of the most relaxing. I had to get a cigar. The extraordinary combination of flowers and scented bubble bath made it impossible not to think of my wife.
2006 Award-Hand-Out Emirates Palace
The next morning after a full night's sleep and a quick breakfast, we were scheduled to meet the management and staff for the award ceremony. The first time in the history of world hospitality a resort - hotel would officially receive a full Seven Stars. We were exited. Without a doubt, our stay at the Kempinski Emirates Palace had been a unique experience, setting a new milestone for the global hospitality under the expert management of GM Noel Massoud and his hotel manager Arild Sjoedin.
As accepting the ‘Seven Stars and Stripes Award’ - GM Noel Massoud said:
"This is a fantastic achievement for the hotel, and helps to strengthen our position as
a true world-class resort destination. Providing customer service beyond expectations is a
daily commitment for us here, and we are deeply thankful for this recognition."
by Thorsten Buehrmann & Arno Goudschaal

Editor: Ingrid Lemme

Editor-in-Chief: John Lomitola
© 2006 ~ Seven Stars and Stripes, Inc.


 
 
 
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Disclaimer:

Although the above information was accurate at the time of publication, it can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all pertinent information with the companies in question before planning your trip.


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