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| L'Europe |
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| St.
Petersburg - Russia |
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Society - World
Level Perfection
March - 2007 |
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6 Stars
& 7 Stripes
Overall - 'Cuisine & Service' |
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The
Ultimate Award:
Seven Stars and
Stripes® |
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| Svetlana Sukhorukova our smiling hostess beckoned us
and moved gracefully towards us. Our
2006
Seven Stars and Stripes Award Plaque greeted us on a wall adjacent to the
entrance. The glorious baroque chamber music wafted throughout the Art Deco
interior as if a meandering rivulet in a pristine forest. All the elements for
a gratifying evening were in place and ready for the capable hands of
Executive
Chef Yoann Bernard to demonstrate his culinary prowess. A spirited Maitre
d’ by the name of
Dmitry
Zakharchenko, who is a member of the famed La Chaîne des
Rôtisseurs, offered to guide us to our table. It was
Dmitry,
who assisted us on a previous visit to the L’Europe and under his watchful
eyes, we were able to dine elegantly and enjoy the imperial splendor of
exceptional and personalized Russian service. |
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“The glorious baroque chamber music wafted throughout the Art
Deco
interior as if a meandering rivulet in a pristine forest .” ~ TB
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| Our table was set with fresh
flowers and Figgjo Norwegian ceramic pieces, innovatively designed to present
Chef Bernard’s cuisine as works of art. “Every detail has been
thoroughly examined”, I thought as I contemplated the fine dinnerware.
Dmitry
suggested Dom Pérignon 1998, as an opener, creamy, radiant,
voluptuous and sensual, it was just what the doctor ordered. It was time now
for
Chef
Bernard to present his famous tasting menu to us and we sipped the fine
mousse in cheerful anticipation of culinary event. |
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| “... innovatively designed to present
Chef
Bernard’s cuisine as works of art ...” ~ TB |
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| “California Style” Tuna wrapped with
tomato water gelée and topped with Sevruga Caviar was the first course.
The tomato water is a sort of updated version of tomato aspic and combined with
the subtle buttery taste of the caviar worked well to support the fresh ocean
flavor of the delicate seared tuna. Next up was the Duck Liver Crème
Brule with apricot, pistachio and “Baume de venise” granite (a
naturally sweet aromatic wine of the Muscat family). Argentine Gambas
(shrimps) served with vodka marinated salmon cucumber, soya bean and ginger
sesame sauce was delivered now and the tender shrimps literally burst with
flavor with every bite. Of special note was the next course of Chilean Sea
Bass, Provencal with green asparagus, fennel and lemon confit together with
sweet and sour beetroot sauce. The large tender white flakes of sea bass sat
side by side with the lemon and fennel confit, which was cooked to a jam-like
consistency and served as accompaniment. The sea bass was paired with a wine
selection of Pouilly Fumé “la Demoiselle de Bourgeois", Henri
Bourgeois 2004, a smoky wine of extraordinary depth of character, hence the
name, Fumé (French for "smoke"). This wine is tart, crisp and grassy
which is accomplished by using Sauvignon Blanc as the sole grape. |
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| 2007 Award-Hand-Out: L'Europe Restaurant, St. Petersburg -
Russia |
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| We were pleased with the intermezzo of Passion
fruit and Dom Pérignon served as a granite as it cooled and
refreshed us with exotic flavors for the next course. Black Angus Beef and
Parma Ham mille feuille with carrots, tomato confit, potato
“sable” and beef jus turned up shortly thereafter and we decided that
the American icon could be respectfully prepared by the competent team of
L’Europe Restaurant. “It was just as I expected it, midway between
rare and medium rare, but just a shade towards rare”, I exclaimed as I
made quick work of the first bite. After dinner, I risked it all on my passion
of Duo flavored Chocolate with “belle de brillet” cognac and
pear sorbet. This was a masterful display of delicate milk chocolate with the
wistful flavor of pear and tantalizing aromas of fine cognac. I retreated to
the bar for an after dinner drink, all the while contemplating the deftness,
skill and apparent ease with which the cuisine was prepared by
Executive
Chef Yoann Bernard and his proficient team. |
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“... the skill and apparent ease with which the cuisine was
prepared by
Executive
Chef Yoann Bernard and his proficient team.” ~ TB |
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by
Thorsten Buehrmann & Arno Goudschaal
Editor: John
Lomitola
Editor-in-Chief: Ingrid Lemme |
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| © 2007 ~ Seven Stars and Stripes, Inc. |
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